The first day: Napoleon vs. Valcarlos
The start of the Camino Francés from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (SJPDP) to Roncesvalles is considered the “royal stage”. The scenery is stunning, but physically it is probably the greatest challenge of the entire route.
You are faced with an important decision right at the start: the Napoleon route (over the mountains) or the Valcarlos route (through the valley).
1. the Napoleon Route (Route de Napoléon)
This is the “classic” route that most pilgrims choose, weather permitting.
Route: You climb steeply from SJPDP, pass the Orisson hostel and cross the Pyrenees at the Col de Lepoeder pass (1,430 m) before descending steeply to Roncesvalles.
Challenge: Almost 1,250 meters of ascent over approx. 25 km. This is an enormous strain on untrained knees and lungs.
Advantage: Spectacular 360-degree panoramas, vast grasslands and the feeling of entering Spain “above the clouds”.
2. the Valcarlos route (variant par Valcarlos)
This variant leads lower down the slope and through the valley of the Nive de Valcarlos river.
Route: The trail often follows the N-135 national road (mostly on side paths) and passes through the village of Valcarlos, where there is also accommodation and cafés.
Challenge: Similar length at approx. 24 km, but “only” around 900 meters of ascent, which are more evenly distributed.
Advantage: Better infrastructure (refreshment stops), protection from extreme wind and fog and the only option in winter.
Who should choose which variant?
The Napoleon Route is for you if…
The weather is perfect: bright sunshine or light cloud cover are ideal.
You are fit: you have trained beforehand and your backpack weighs no more than 10-12% of your body weight.
You are looking for the “summit experience”: you want to start the Camino with the ultimate panorama.
The Valcarlos route is for you if…
The weather is bad: in heavy fog, storms or sleet, the Napoleon route is life-threatening (loss of orientation!).
It’s winter: From November 1 to March 31, the Napoleon Route is strictly closed for safety reasons.
You want to take it easier: If you have knee problems or don’t want to go straight to your absolute limit on the first day.
You start late: If you don’t set off from SJPDP until midday, Valcarlos offers you the opportunity to break off the stage in the middle.
Our tip for the start
Never underestimate the Pyrenees. There is a pilgrims’ office in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (72 Rue de la Citadelle). Make sure you stop by there before you start! The staff there will tell you what the weather is like on the pass and whether the Napoleon Route is safe to walk.
Important: The descent to Roncesvalles is steep on both routes and is hard on the knees. Hiking poles are your best friend here.
