Camino Francés: Sabrina’s honest diary in 33 stages

In October 2022, Sabrina David walked the Camino Francés and shared her experiences, feelings and photos day by day in the jakobsweg.de Facebook group. Thousands of pilgrims read Sabrina’s posts, and a great many of them were inspired by her.

Sabrina’s Camino swung between tears and dancing. Her account is long (strictly speaking, the longest one on jakobsweg.de), and yet it’s especially worth reading, because it takes you along on the emotional journey from the Pyrenees all the way to Santiago.

So take your time reading it, make yourself two cups of tea and enjoy getting to look over Sabrina’s shoulder as she walks.

Here we go:

Stage 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port – Roncesvalles (24.5 km)

Yesterday I was still a bit worried about the walk – can I do this? Is it too high, too far, too something? That’s probably also something I want to leave behind on the Camino: underestimating myself.

Today’s walk can’t be put into words – with all its beauty it made this day unforgettable.

I left SJPDP at 7:05 with a few other pilgrims, out of town and straight up a fairly steep, steady climb. But the glorious sunrise and the shared silence that all the pilgrims kept were enchanting.

The first 1.5 hours flew by – despite the effort and my sweaty skin I felt completely happy.

The first climb was hard, so hard that I got my bar of chocolate out before the first break. I simply stopped, dug out the good Lindt salted caramel and ate a third of it in one go. That did me good. After that my strength came back and on I went.

I thought about so many things, about people who were once in my life but whom I’ve distanced myself from. Was every decision always the right one? I just let the thoughts come, and I know they’re there for a reason. The path is so impressive and like something out of a fairy tale. My eyes can see so far. This world is beautiful, and I’m allowing myself a wonderful gift here.

The sheep and horses in the Pyrenees just roam around freely. They seem so peaceful and calming to me. I soak up every moment, every second. I’m trying to pack everything away in my heart, just like in my backpack, and I hope that later, back home, I can live off these impressions and moments for a long time. I’m so proud of myself. I’ve been on the road for more than two weeks and walked from France into Spain.

The albergue here is huge. 180 beds, I think… we all ate in the restaurant next door, organised by the church. Afterwards we went to Mass, which really touched me. Philipp, Christine and Marie Claire were there too. The three of them are so sweet.

Tomorrow I carry on, and it’s no longer Bon Chemin but Buen Camino.

Stage 2: Roncesvalles – Zubiri (22 km)

This morning it felt like all 183 pilgrims set off from the albergue towards Zubiri at 7:30 after breakfast. A crowd of people from all over the world, young and old all mixed together. It was a new but lovely feeling of pilgrimage – though chilly at around 9 degrees Celsius. Now I’m part of a crowd!

After 7–8 km the group slowly started to break up. The first ones stopped for a break and some hurried past me. At some point I was even walking on my own.

The first few kilometres went through little Spanish villages. The first bar with tapas – of course I ordered my first little Spanish delicacy just after 10 o’clock. I didn’t quite dare go for the mussels and octopus option at 10 in the morning, though. It was something I knew: tomato with mini mozzarella and pesto. Later I also ate the most delicious melon of all time.

Today’s walk didn’t have an easy time with me… in my head I was still raving about yesterday, and that wonderful experience is still with me today.

When I arrived in Zubiri there was a wonderfully idyllic river. You sit here together with other pilgrims, cool your feet and relax in the warm sunshine.

Our albergue has two rooms with 4 bunk beds each. Lin and I are going out to a restaurant for dinner today.

I didn’t think about much today… I just walked… took breaks… treated myself to a drink wherever I could and kept on walking through the rocky landscape. I think of my loved ones at home and it feels good to know they’re waiting for me and following my journey here.

I don’t want to think about the fact that I’ll be on the road for another 5 weeks. I’m living from day to day and I have a firm goal in mind.

Stage 3: Zubiri – Pamplona/Zizur Mayor (26 km)

This morning I set off before 7. After 3 minutes I came to a bridge leading out of Zubiri. Not a streetlight in sight, and the path was stony. I could already hear the trekking poles of the other pilgrims clattering behind me, and it was really handy that a fellow walker had a torch with him to make the path a bit more visible for us for the next 15 minutes.

That led to a nice conversation with an Australian who had originally left Austria more than 40 years ago and spoke excellent German.

For the next few km I had good company, and people listened eagerly to my story too.

After a while I decided to pick up my pace a little so I could have some time to myself, and that’s completely normal on the Camino. When you’ve talked enough, you wish each other a friendly Buen Camino and move on. Everyone does it that way and accepts that need.

After about 9 km, at 9 o’clock, I could already hear the Spanish music from the first bar. Lin was already sitting there with Bill, an American. The tortilla I ordered there was amazing. Spinach, cheese, potato – sooo delicious, I’m definitely going to make that myself back in Germany.

The day flew by again and soon I was in Pamplona. I really liked Pamplona with its charm and Spanish temperament. I looked at the big cathedral and was really impressed.

I sat down comfortably outside a modern bar and enjoyed a tasty toast with goat’s cheese and a shandy.

Soon I met Lin; we’d arranged to meet Philipp, Marie Claire and lovely Christin. We had one last drink together and hugged each other warmly when we said goodbye. The three of them are heading home tomorrow. Lin and I are walking another 5 km and staying in an Airbnb. A nice Spanish woman rents out a room in her sweetly furnished flat.

In a minute Lin and I are going for another stroll into town to find something tasty to eat.

Last night we had a really nice time sitting with a few German pilgrims. I wonder how often we’ll see each other again.

Stage 4: Pamplona/Zizur Mayor – Puente la Reina (20.5 km)

Today started in the dark as always – the nice thing about that is you get to see the most beautiful sunrise.

Today we climbed a few more metres up to the wind turbines and the pilgrim figures on the Alto del Perdón. This section was beautiful-beautiful, I just couldn’t stop taking photos.

Then it was several km downhill over gravel. Along the way I met a little bird that kept daring to come closer and closer to me. Apparently it wanted to tell me something.

Today I saw almond trees for the first time.

In a bar along the way I had a hot chocolate to fortify myself. The tasty leftovers from yesterday kept me going on the way too. Somehow I find it super cosy to sit by the path with a few provisions and watch the other pilgrims pass by. Some completely lost in thought, others in a hurry, others chatting away.

Unfortunately, since this morning I’d had a bit of pain in my left shin. So the break did me good.

I only got talking to a few pilgrims today. I wanted to focus on myself, and I didn’t see the familiar faces again until later at the destination.

Today Lin and I are staying in Puente la Reina; we chose the parish albergue – several rooms with bunk beds, 7 euros a night. When I arrived, the pain in my shin unfortunately wasn’t so little after all, so first I put my feet up and actually fell asleep for 20 minutes. It frustrates me a bit that now of all times this stupid pain turns up, when I’ve had no blisters or anything for three weeks.

After my power nap I felt a bit better mentally. Now I could head off to a pharmacy. Ice spray, ibuprofen and Voltaren will hopefully help. I also sat down by the lovely river and was able to cool my shin wonderfully. I really, really hope it settles down now.

The night will tell.

Stage 5: Puente la Reina – Estella (21.5 km)

The night was fairly quiet and I got to sleep until 6:30 today. My first thought was of my shin, which felt pretty unremarkable. Relieved, I got dressed and set off out of town at 7:30.

Today the path went through a few wooded sections, uphill over gravel and red sandy tracks. Some kind of pine decorated the landscape, together with yellow flowers. Soon came harvested fields. The wide view into the distance was breathtakingly beautiful again today.

My relief was to last. My shin held up.

I hardly skipped a chance to take a break and was full of happy thoughts. Such a contrast to yesterday. I keep noticing that unexpected pain quickly unsettles me. To Udo Lindenberg’s song “Mein Body und ich” I made a pact with my body. It holds out now, and from November I’ll let it rest.

It said: “Deal!” and so my body and I are buddies. Always have been, really, but sometimes I have to remind it!

I keep listening to music and enjoying the path, every step and every thought that comes to me. Soon after, I bump into Andrea. She looks pleased about it and we walk quite a long way together. Straight away we’re in conversations that go deep. We take turns having very emotional moments and feel understood by each other. That feels really good.

Not tired in the slightest and cheerful, I arrive in Estella, where Lin has already saved me a bed. The albergue is big and fairly modern. With the atmosphere here, you quickly get the feeling that we’re all part of a great community.

We’ve all briefly checked out of real life, and somehow I feel nothing but positive energy here.

I’m so fit today that I wander into town again. I’ve run out of soap. Again I find a river. This time I don’t go in, but I enjoy the view. At the supermarket I buy a few provisions for tomorrow. Now I’m sitting in the garden having a rest. Later Lin and I are going to a chocolaterie.

Stage 6: Estella – Torres del Río (28.5 km)

This morning I really wasn’t in the mood! I just wanted to sleep in for once, and today’s 28 km put me off a bit. I didn’t want to annoy my shin again and preferred to be careful.

The night was noisy, I woke up 3–4 times, and before 6 o’clock the first pilgrim decided he had to spend minutes sorting his plastic bags and rustling for all he was worth. I dug my heels in and stayed in bed until 6:30.

Everything else happened in slow motion, since I wasn’t sooo motivated today. Last night I’d kept the option open of only walking 20 km. But when Lin told me you can book on Booking.com and be sure of your bed, I booked the 28 km along with the bed. Oh well – whether I walk them today or tomorrow!

Still, in the back of my mind I had: if need be, you stop at 20 km. Just getting going was this morning’s goal. So, as always, I walked out of town while it was still dark.

Today’s path had a fair bit of climbing again. There was also a flatter variant, but I didn’t see it, and that was just as well. The route was so beautiful and varied again. I walked through stretches of forest, across lots of fields, through little villages with places to refuel.

After 20 km I reached the village that would have been my option for stopping early on this stage. I knew right away… nope, I’ve still got it in me… let’s go, the 7–8 km will be fine.

Then there was Andrea standing there, and I was really happy. We walked a bit together and soon we were sitting in the next café again. Had a beer and ate chocolate.

We also looked at the church together, and the next 7 km flew by in no time with all our chatting. Her accommodation was 800 m before mine, and in the end it was actually a shame that the 28 km were already over.

When I got to my accommodation, I washed everything in a real washing machine for a change. That’s quite nice every now and then. Tomorrow I only have 21 km ahead of me.

Every day is new and different. It’s pretty crazy that I set off again here every single day and that at the end of the day it always feels totally right!

Stage 7: Torres del Río – Logroño (21 km)

After we were treated to a little Spanish concert in the chapel last night, I slept really well. Shortly before 6, though, the night was already over again. The first ones marched off. I got quite a fright when I woke up at 6:30 and saw that everyone except an older gentleman and me had left. Where on earth are they all going in the dark, I thought?

Well, I quickly packed everything up and got myself a cappuccino from the albergue’s vending machine. When I looked at my watch outside in the pitch dark, it said 7:05… after a few metres I realised I couldn’t find the path without my headlamp, so I rummaged around in my backpack again to arm myself with it.

That’s when the next ones came along – Angelo, who would play a part later on, asked if I needed help. Later we walked a few km together and took the first photos of the sunrise.

Today’s path was very pretty at first, but later it also went through a lot of industrial areas.

You could see Logroño for the first time 10 km before you reached it. A huge city. After 21 km I arrived and met Angelo again at the second albergue!

“Why don’t you stay here, we’ll cook together,” he said when we saw each other again. But I moved on for the time being.

Then I had a drink in a bar with Lin and Felix, and when Felix said he was going over to Angelo’s to cook with him, my gut said… “Hey, that sounds nice, I’m going too.” Before I knew it, the four of us went shopping with 71-year-old Ken from Ireland and then cooked together in the albergue. In the end there were 7–8 people around the table. Carrell from Holland and Ed from Great Britain as well. To be honest, I can’t even remember all the names. In any case, it was super funny and a really great evening. Andrea also popped by briefly for a hug, but then walked on.

It’s simply indescribable how uncomplicated and easy everything feels here. Tomorrow is a long stage. 29 km. Either 13 or 29… I’ll see how far my feet want to go.

Stage 8: Logroño – Nájera (29.5 km)

Today the day started before 7 in the morning again. First it was right across the dark city. On the other side of the street a café was lit up and I sniffed out croissants and coffee. Better to stock up before there’s nothing else. And who’s standing in front of me, ordering breakfast completely relaxed? Andrea. Ooh, I’m in, and so we start with half an hour of breakfast.

Neither of us had any idea that we’d then spend the whole day together. We chatted and chatted and chatted.

I didn’t take many photos today and also thought maybe I’d only do half a stage, because I could already feel my foot first thing in the morning.

Then came the first break after about 18 km. I had a super delicious salad there and took an ibuprofen. My ice spray came into action too. Somehow I didn’t want to stop after 20 km.

Along the way, in the vineyards, we came across a group of grape pickers. The man was sooo kind and friendly that he pressed 2 huge bunches of grapes straight into our hands, and we took photos too.

At a church we took our next rest and drank cappuccino from the vending machine. It was simply glorious! The path carried us. We ate blackberries, figs, the grapes we’d been given and fennel seeds from the wayside, and some of our conversations were so funny that we didn’t notice other pilgrims listening in and having a chuckle. Too lovely!

We didn’t arrive at our destination until 5 pm, pretty worn out. The first albergue smelled so stuffy and was so cramped that we backed straight out again. Hotel if need be, was the plan, and then came the Albergue Puerta de Nájera. Lucky us – two beds still free. This albergue was so beautifully and lovingly furnished, so lovingly run, it really did me good today.

We did some shopping at the supermarket and made ourselves comfortable for dinner – with baguette, cheese, wine and olives we were happy.

The day was absolutely wonderful.

Stage 9: Nájera – Santo Domingo de la Calzada (22 km)

I slept wonderfully and set off with Andrea this morning.

After a short while we agreed to walk a stretch on our own but to meet up again in town this evening. Lin is doing a longer stage today, so I probably won’t see her again until tomorrow. The wind was blowing pretty hard today, which sometimes made for a whole new, motivating feeling of walking. With the right music I leaned into the wind and put one foot in front of the other for about 6 hours.

There weren’t too many cafés and bars on today’s route, so every now and then I sat down by the side of the path and just ate my supplies from my backpack. My foot gave me no worries, and otherwise, I have to say, everything felt just right.

I met Alberta and had a coffee with her, and I briefly saw Felix again too – he was limping a bit.

Today’s path was very pretty again, scenic, and led through an unbelievable number of vineyards. I snacked on figs along the way, blackberries and some fennel seeds. When I arrived in Santo Domingo, I quite quickly found a nice albergue – big but clean.

Ed is in the room too, and Andrea arrived shortly after me. We danced in the room to Helene Fischer… that was really very funny. Later Andrea and I went to look at the cathedral. There we ran into Heidi and Petra again. The tapas bar we’d been longing for was closed… so we made do with little cakes and chocolates instead. The tapas will have to wait until this evening – most restaurants here don’t open again until around 7 pm.

I’m happy: my body has got used to everything, I know lots of people on the Camino, the weather is being sooo kind to us – it could hardly be better.

Stage 10: Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Belorado (25 km)

Last night I got lucky after all and had a super delicious paella. This morning I carried on with my headlamp before 7.

To my left, wonderful wide fields. To my right, unfortunately, a busy road for a long time. The landscape changed, and the vineyards gave way to harvested wheat fields.

Today the path was richly stocked with bars and cafés, so first with Andrea and later on my own I stopped at every one of them for a coffee, or a freshly squeezed orange juice and a croissant.

I walked half the way alone, listening to my playlist.

Actually, today’s destination was supposed to be Tosantos, but things turned out differently. I met Gerd, who told me about a great albergue with a pool and breakfast. On the spur of the moment I decided that this was the better place for me today. Andrea joined me, and so we also met Angelo, Felix, Petra and Heidi again. Tonight we’re all going to eat together.

It was a bit too cold for the pool for me in the end. The morning temperatures are slowly becoming more and more of a little challenge for me, but I’m still walking in shorts.

I enjoy the fresh air, and the higher the sun climbs, the more pleasantly warm it gets. In the sun I can even sit in a top. From tomorrow that’s supposed to change for a day or two. I’m ready… bring on the rain!

Every day I’m happy that it goes on.

The big halfway point, Burgos, is already very close, and today I booked myself a nice hotel there, all to myself, as a reward.

Relax for once, rest, sleep in, have a looooong breakfast and go back to bed! But that’s still two days away.

Stage 11: Belorado – Agés (29 km)

There’s just no other way. Everyone was awake before 6 again and, well, then you’re already back on the road. This morning the cold didn’t bother me much.

First we walked along gravel paths past sunflower fields. The first bars were closed, so Andrea and I were all the happier about the third one – there we had tortilla, croissant, coffee and fresh orange juice… the full works.

After the bar, each of us went our own way. Music carried me through the whole day today. My thoughts circled around times gone by, around what’s still to come, around the last five, six years in which I’ve gone through an incredible transformation. A transformation I’m very glad about. For me, the Camino isn’t a way to find myself – it’s a way because I have found myself! With the Camino I want to let go of old things for good. Make peace with what can no longer be changed, let go of things that weighed heavily for a long time, but which today I’m grateful to have experienced. Everything! Everything made sense – I wouldn’t be what or who I am today. I had lots of good moments today.

The path was beautiful and led through forest for a long time; it smelled of fir and the air was wonderfully clear. Thousands of little fir cones decorated the ground. Like in a fairy tale, a horse was suddenly standing in the forest in front of me. I’m a bit scared of horses (unfortunately). It was so pretty and elegant, so peaceful, and it created an unforgettable atmosphere for me.

Me alone in the forest with this dreamlike, elegant animal – a special moment. Not even the rain, which I’d actually expected much earlier, could bother me. I wish I could convey even a little of the emotion that’s in this Camino.

Every day I meet countless faces that have smiled at me countless times already. Every day I look into shining eyes.

Almost everyone I ask here what their goal is answers Santiago de Compostela…

We all have the same goal… every day we all take the same steps, on the same path, we all look in the same direction and have this incredible sense of community.

Stage 12: Agés – Burgos (23 km)

I set off alone today, because a few of my fellow pilgrims took a taxi due to foot pain. It was known that today’s route would be short but not all that pretty. Still, I didn’t want to skip anything or miss sections like that either.

Soon the first café lit up along the way. A few other pilgrims were already there warming up. This morning it was around 7 degrees. The path climbed steadily and led over lots of wider gravel tracks to a summit cross. In the moment when the clouds, tinged pink and blue, hung over the trees and the cross on the horizon, I was very glad I’d decided to walk. I’d always wanted to stand at a summit cross – OK, it wasn’t sooooo high (about 1,100 m), but I can still tick something off my bucket list.

The descent was nice for a while too. Shortly before Burgos I came through a lot of industrial area – for km it went through the not-so-pretty outskirts of Burgos. Past lots of cars, DIY stores, old industrial buildings. In the centre of Burgos I was overwhelmed at first: so many cars, people, traffic lights – big city! I immediately thought: ohhh noooo, I’m staying here for two days. I wanted to go back to a little village.

Bravely my path led me on, but soon I got to see the charm of the old town, the many pretty shops and bars.

The dreamlike, huge cathedral – the atmosphere here was modern and full of life. My hotel was right here too. Once I’d arrived in my hotel room, alone, at first I was just glad to flop onto the bed and simply lock a door behind me for once.

Soon Lin texted and we met up. Angelo, Felix and Andrea joined us too. Lin had a farewell present for everyone. But for me, also a special bracelet with a little saying that suits me.

Again and again we had to cry, because the goodbye feels very strange for all of us. I’m very grateful that I started my journey with Lin. In the evening we went to a pizzeria. Unfortunately Lin had to go back to her albergue early. Andrea, Felix and I stayed on for a long time and had a fun evening.

Stage 13: A day in Burgos

Burgos really did surprise me. What I’d felt at first was an unpleasantly crowded, hectic city turned out to be the perfect place to spend some time.

That weekend countless people in Burgos were celebrating a kind of medieval festival. There were market stalls with jewellery, leather goods and delicious food. Spanish music was playing everywhere. The Spaniards sang along, and I could really feel how proud the Spanish are of their wonderful country. I ran into several people again whom I’d met over and over on the Camino. We kept sitting together in all sorts of bars, eating tapas and drinking calimocho.

On Friday night I didn’t get back to my hotel room until around 0:30. Despite the late night I was in my routine and woke up just after 6. But I had time, so I could get ready at my leisure, have a delicious breakfast and then explore the city. I actually even went shopping. Some beauty bits, a warm jumper, a necklace as a reminder of this lovely time and a beanie, because I’m sometimes cold here in the mornings.

The day was absolutely wonderful. Again we sat together nicely with all sorts of people. I said goodbye to Lin with a tight hug and a few tears. The day in Burgos was great and gave me new energy. Still, I was glad to continue my journey today… wonderful… the Meseta… I like it.

Stage 14: Burgos – Hornillos del Camino (21 km)

This morning, after my breakfast, I set off nice and relaxed, not until around 7:30. It was a really lovely feeling to be following the yellow arrows again with my backpack on my back and my poles in my hands. Today’s stage wasn’t going to be long; I have plenty of time.

The Meseta more or less begins during today’s stage, and to me it’s beautiful. Clearer and emptier than the previous stages, sand-coloured and dry. Today I walked completely without music, and a large part of it without company. I could think, ask myself questions. Feel at ease and take deep breaths.

At my own pace I reached my destination after 21 km and was lucky straight away choosing an albergue. The albergue is pretty, modern and fairly new. Totally feel-good. Andrea joined me, we bought some tasty things for dinner at the mini supermercado and relaxed.

In the evening it was actually just the two of us for once; we ate our tasty shopping and talked a lot about the most formative events in our lives. We laughed a lot together, philosophised, analysed, cried a little and simply raised a glass to life. What a beautiful day that was again, honestly!

It can happily go on like this.

Stage 15: Hornillos del Camino – Hontanas (11 km)

This morning I didn’t leave the albergue until just before 8. Today I deliberately wanted to take lots and lots of time. Enjoy the Meseta and walk alone. Without music and in slow motion, I walked along the pebbly paths step by step, and at times I had moments when my thoughts were tumbling over each other.

I took my first break with a muesli bar and a banana after just 5 km. My right knee was twinging a bit, so I thought: don’t stress yourself today.

After about 10 km, piano music rang out from far away. The piano is my favourite instrument. A newly built Mediterranean-style café lay on the path, and I thought, “You’re taking this one in too.” I sat there gazing out into the distance of the Meseta… the piano music then pretty much finished me off and I just burst into floods of tears. What can I say, it obviously just had to come out. Afterwards I felt great.

After 11 km I’ve now arrived in a super pretty little village. With colourful little flags and a super romantic little church.

I’m staying here today and just letting the place sink in.

Stage 16: Hontanas – Boadilla del Camino (approx. 30 km)

I don’t know what’s going on. Actually I was fine, I was full of energy and clear about what I wanted and what I didn’t. Now somehow I’m sad, and I think it’s because of my inner child, which has once again been made to feel that I’m not important.

I ventured into something that I imagined would be easier. But the Camino brings things up that aren’t easy.

That’s just how it is, and now it’s my task to deal with it.

Every step today felt somehow as if I had concrete blocks on my feet. Every word was hard, and I’d have loved to send every thought to the devil.

The Meseta is beautiful-beautiful; I’m grateful that I get to walk through this piece of earth and that I’m actually so free to decide everything for myself every day.

I’d like to be strong, to laugh and feel the energy of the Camino, like in the first weeks. Right now I feel drained and powerless.

After 18 km I met Andrea again. She saw straight away that I wasn’t doing so well today. First we laughed and chatted, and then she hugged me because somehow I had to start crying yet again. I don’t want to cry any more… I’ve decided I’m going to stop that now.

Then we walked side by side in silence for quite a long way. We’d agreed on that beforehand. At a bush that felt like the only shady spot today, I suddenly heard lots of birds twittering. Nothing else, just the light wind of the Meseta and the birds. I sat down, closed my eyes and simply stayed sitting there for a few long minutes. I just wanted to listen to the twittering and be completely with myself.

That was a beautiful moment.

When we arrived in Boadilla del Camino we found a really nice albergue with a pool and a lovely garden. I have the feeling there are only pilgrims in the village and no other people at all.

I’m still grateful to be on the Camino, but my longing for home was very strong today.

Stage 17: Boadilla del Camino – Carrión de los Condes (26 km)

Today was a really good day. Andrea and I set off around 7 and thanked Eduardo, the hospitalero – his good mood was really infectious yesterday. Today was a day for taking our time.

In the next village we first had breakfast and went to a supermarket and a post office. You see, I sent a few things home that I don’t need at all on the Camino. With a lighter backpack my journey now continues. Not just physically, mentally too.

Andrea and I sang and danced along the way – that was totally liberating. On the count of 5 we briefly screamed out loud… the empty Meseta took in our roaring and called back… you’re amazing!

We didn’t reach our destination until after 5, because we really didn’t skip a single bar where we could eat tapas and drink lemonade. We have a really wonderful albergue, Santa María. Run by nuns. There was singing in the garden. The atmosphere was simply beautiful.

Later we sat with Carrell, whom I’d already met in Roncesvalles, and he really inspired me with his view of the world, his optimism, his path through life and his way of dealing with life.

Life is actually really easy… apart from a few exceptions, but we’ll manage those!

Stage 18: Carrión de los Condes – Moratinos (30 km)

At 4 o’clock the first alarm went off! I managed to sleep until 6:05 after that. I’m slowly starting to wonder whether I can stand these albergues for another 3 weeks.

The sunrise was dreamlike again. We celebrated our breakfast right in the first café in town. Totally relaxed, we set off around 7:30.

Personally, I don’t find the Meseta nearly as dull and long as I’d been told beforehand. There are a few poplars – I like poplars, they remind me of home, where they also stand so beautifully between the fields. The announced 18 km without an albergue or café weren’t bad. A food truck stood on the path with fitting music, and the following 10 km felt like a piece of cake. Probably also because of my backpack being 3 kg lighter. Alex helped me sort out my stuff yesterday. He’s a pro!

After 26 km I arrived today in the village that was actually supposed to be my destination. Andrea and I immediately thought the atmosphere wasn’t right here. Then Carell came round the corner. Heaven sent him to us. We did end up at a cosy-looking albergue after all. Only 2 beds still free. All for one and one for all – we didn’t want to leave anyone behind. So we decided within seconds… on to the next village!

The three of us are now in a nice room with proper, thick mattresses and proper bed linen. No rubber, no paper covers. Tonight we’ll sleep comfortably, without snorers and without an alarm going off at 4 again. That made today’s 30 km worth it.

For dinner I had spaghetti – wowww, was that delicious, finally pasta again.

I love pasta!

Stage 19: Moratinos – Calzadilla de los Hermanillos (23.6 km)

Today, for the very first time, I was actually woken up by my own alarm! 6:45 a.m.

Carrel, Andrea and I even waited 15 minutes until our albergue got the coffee going. Carell stayed for a second café. Andrea and I set off in the half-dark. I have no idea how many km were planned for today. Destination unknown.

After 10 km I carried on alone for a while. For the first time in days, with music again. Music is an incredibly beautiful companion for me, but for the last three days I couldn’t stand it, because the Meseta is already doing more than enough to me. Today’s stage was super beautiful. I decided on the longer stage.

I was completely alone! All around me endless open space, a few trees and the path in front of me. I danced! My trekking poles were my pole-dance pole.

I was alone anyway… so nothing mattered at all! I was beaming inside and in my mind every step was a step towards home! I miss my kids! My Finn sent me such a sweet message today. I’m so proud of my kids! They are truly wonderful people! Today was a day when I felt really strong and thought about everything I’ve already managed and achieved. I don’t always manage to see those things! Today I did! Today was good! I’m good… so damn good!

The Camino is good! I’m happy that I still have a bit of time for all my thoughts. I’m looking forward to another day or two of Meseta. I’m looking forward to Galicia. I found a sweet albergue. Four-bed room, white towels, brand-new bathroom… I need that today. 20 euros including breakfast. Andrea is still on her way and is joining me. I reserved her bed just in case.

In a minute I’m going for another walk through the village to celebrate the day!

Stage 20: Calzadilla de los Hermanillos – Mansilla de las Mulas (24 km)

Last night I woke up at 5, even though it was quiet in the room. Then I couldn’t get back to sleep for a good hour. At 7:30 I got a fright, because I was the only one in the room still lying in bed.

For a long stretch today the path ran over coarse stones and past endless fields. There were two routes; I chose the almost 24 km stretch with no villages from Calzadilla to Mansilla de las Mulas.

I hadn’t realised that there would really be nothing at all, not even a food truck. But since my pack was now 3 kg lighter, yesterday I’d bought at least 3 kg of provisions. Grapes, biscuits, a banana, a mandarin, muesli bars, a tomato and an apple… I’m prepared – if I meet any starving pilgrims along the way, I can share.

The path was mentally and physically exhausting, monotonous and with few distractions. I was alone the whole way. So once again I had plenty of opportunities to dance and sing out loud!

After 7 hours I reached my destination and was pretty glad. Petra, whom I hadn’t seen for quite a while, waved to me. So the first thing I did was have a beer with her. I also kept running into Hochez (no idea if I’m spelling that right). Andrea joined us too, and today I’m sharing a lovely hotel room with her. Really modern and nice.

Before dinner I ran into Hochez again. He’s sleeping outside tonight. He couldn’t find a room. We offered him the couch in the kitchen. But he said he’s young and strong, he’ll stay outside. OK… I hope the poor guy doesn’t freeze tonight. I also suggested the church, but I think he’s got his eye on the bench in the market square. “That’s the Camino,” he said, laughing out loud.

Today I spoke to my sister again after a long time. That did me so much good.

How lovely that I have her!

In the evening we got together for dinner at an albergue with lots of other familiar faces. Bernd sat with us and we had great conversations at the table; he was very spiritual and had a wonderfully calm presence. Tomorrow we’ll arrive in León.

Stage 21: Mansilla de las Mulas – León (20 km)

The route to León led through quite a lot of industrial areas and along the road. I started with a café con leche and my orange juice, which has become a tradition by now. Most of the cafés along the way were closed. After 20 km León appeared on the horizon. Big city!

I took another deep breath in and out, but then I was happy to have reached another milestone on my Camino. At the edge of town Andrea and I met up again. First we went into a small church. A strikingly well-dressed woman spoke to me. Unfortunately I didn’t understand her. She took my hand and almost started to cry. She smiled, let go of me and then thanked me. She blew me a kiss. I took it to mean that she was somehow happy and grateful. That moment gave me a very deep sense of connection. At the medieval market – a bit like the one in Burgos – I bought myself some jewellery as a souvenir of this amazing time here. A little luxury is a must.

In the evening we sat together with other pilgrims. León was wonderfully lively and had so much Spanish flair. We never really managed to call it a night – we were drawn into a bar with Spanish music. We danced for the next 2 hours. Barefoot and full of the joy of life, I just let the evening take its course. That felt so good after the long Covid break from partying.

Glorious…. I didn’t want the Spanish music to ever stop, and I really didn’t want to leave yet. But tomorrow’s walk is waiting. León, what a beautiful evening.

Stage 22: León – Villavante (31 km)

I chose the longer but more scenic route. Just getting out of León took a while. Too long to skip breakfast. Andrea and I agreed on that. And because the tortilla was soooo delicious, we had two. After that we split up for a while. The path looked dreamily beautiful. It led along long gravel tracks, once again past endless fields. My mood was good, but yesterday’s sangria and mojito were still very noticeable.

Well, if you party, you have to work too. After about 28 km I simply couldn’t go on. I lay down on a bench. For hours there hadn’t been another pilgrim in sight, not even Andrea. Thank goodness there were still yellow arrows. I just lay there and almost fell asleep. A bumblebee woke me up again. I ate all the provisions in my backpack. I could feel my circulation acting up. Chocolate, fruit and water gave me my energy back. “Come on… pull yourself together!” I gave myself another boost with music and took a run-up for the last 2–3 km. Today my watch said over 31 km; it was supposed to be 29 km.

Once I got to the albergue, the shower felt amazing. Today I’m just staying in bed. Eat something and back to bed. 9 hours of walking without any real breaks is enough! Tomorrow only around 20 km…. On to Astorga. I hope the mouse here in the albergue doesn’t wander into my backpack.

Stage 23: Villavante – Astorga (25 km)

This morning Andrea and I left the hostel and from the very first metre were “besieged” by a Dutchman who was starting his walk today. The poor guy just didn’t notice that at 7:15 in the morning we weren’t in the mood for non-stop chatter.

At some point I stopped and spent 10 minutes looking for my headlamp, just so he’d get the idea to walk on. No such luck! The only thing that helped was being direct…. “I’d like to walk on alone!”

When he then walked on alone 30 m ahead of me, I immediately felt bad. But hey… that’s just how it is sometimes. Things don’t always go to plan.

Today’s path was great; I was completely rested and full of energy. The paths were colourful. The track was reddish and the fields alternated between cream, green and yellow. Glorious natural landscapes unfolded in front of me. I met lots of completely new pilgrims, but also familiar faces.

To my delight, today I met Santi again in Astorga. He was happy too; we hadn’t expected to see each other again at all, since I hadn’t run into him for days. Hochez, Hanna and Sandra crossed my path too, and somehow we’re connected by the fact that we’ll all be in Santiago in about 10 days and already have so many km behind us. In the evening we sat together with Bernd and Petra for a long time and had really wonderful conversations. I’m so happy to meet such special people here, with such impressive, very inspiring life stories.

The next two stages will be rather short but also emotional. The Cruz de Ferro is very close now. I’m going to lay down two stones there. I’m thinking a lot here about two special people in my life.

I don’t know which paths I want to take after my journey.

I believe you don’t have to find a solution for some things. Maybe it’s already enough to be content when things get calmer inside you, to remember the good sides and to forgive.

Stage 24: Astorga – Rabanal del Camino (21 km)

Astorga was super beautiful! I slept well and after a little breakfast I was off on my way!

Today I really felt like being alone! These are the last 9 days… funnily enough, I can be alone much better now than at the beginning of my journey. At times my thoughts were very calm today… then all over the place again. For a moment it even felt like I’d thought myself empty. Thought it all through, or something! Thought myself content. No idea how to describe it!

Looking into the distance filled me with so much contentment that I didn’t need anything else. The mountains are coming back. They’re still far away on the horizon, but they’re there. I love the mountains… maybe that would be a place for me? Maybe that’s why I called myself Berghuettenfee (“mountain hut fairy”). That’s why I love Austria and am looking forward to the next holiday with my family.

Today I rescued a mole! A cat had stuck its paw into a hole in the ground and pulled the poor little guy out. I watched the game for a moment and then helped him. He deserves a chance, I thought! The cat was fat enough. The little guy was lying on his back, playing dead. I turned him over. I had no idea he could move that fast! He shot off like crazyyyy. Dug himself in quickly and I’m sure he’s glad now that he made it once again. The cat will find something else!

Today I actually wanted to sleep in an albergue again. The first one I walked into smelled very stuffy and was cramped. The bunk beds were packed close together and almost every bed was already taken. I didn’t even think about it, my legs just walked right back out on their own!

So I strolled up the street in the village and found myself in front of a stone building that somehow called out to me… “Take a look inside!” Inside I got a friendly welcome, it smelled deliciously of food, rustic furnishings. Very clean. On the spot I book a double room for Andrea and me – she rolls in shortly after me.

Maybe I’m a little ashamed that I’m treating myself so well.

Goal for the next few days: an albergue with bunk beds and at least 25 other pilgrims. Let’s see if that happens.

Stage 25: Rabanal del Camino – Molinaseca (26 km)

This morning it was darker than ever. The stars were crystal clear and the moon lit my way. Soon the sky behind me put on the most beautiful sunrise I’ve experienced so far.

Today’s stage was so impressive and overwhelming for me. All around me a glorious expanse of forests, heathland and mountains. Today my feet had to get over quite a lot of rock and a fair bit of climbing too.

At the Cruz de Ferro my spirituality deserted me for a moment. I’d thought so much beforehand about what I wanted to leave behind at this cross. When I stood in front of it and took my two stones out of my pocket, a tear or two did roll, but what I thought I’d leave there wasn’t in my thoughts.

Instead I looked at all the pictures that other people had already left there and wondered what heavy burdens some of them were trying to leave behind here.

I was grateful, grateful for all the time I’ve been given so far, for everything I’ve achieved so far, grateful for my incredibly wonderful kids, who have grown into such great young people. Grateful for 24 years with Dennis, for everything we’ve experienced and built together, for going through thick and thin together. Grateful that he puts up with my temperament and my impulsiveness and maybe even loves them a little. Grateful that I get to do this… to go on a journey that brings so much emotion with it, that makes me look at everything that has ever moved me.

A journey that brings uncertainty about what will come afterwards. I’ve only got 8 more days on the road….

I’ve never been more centred than I am now! This journey is like a little life in turbo mode, because EVERYTHING that ever was rushes past me once more here.

I’m so happy that after all this time I get to feel such deep contentment.

Stage 26: Molinaseca – Cacabelos (23 km)

Today’s walk was pretty quiet and didn’t stir much in me. After such an impressive day as yesterday, that’s hard anyway. Or rather, I like to see it this way: days like today are relaxing, because the impressions of the last while can finally sink in without more and more being piled on top.

Actually 31 km were planned for today… but since it was enough as it was, I called it a day after 23 km. I’d just sat down nicely outside a bar and ordered a salad and a beer when Karell turned up. We ate together and had a great conversation. Shortly afterwards Andrea rolled in. Karell moved on. By now it was almost four o’clock. I looked around and said, it’s nice here, isn’t it?

We were lucky – in the 6-person dorm there were still two beds for us. Well then, we’ll stay – that was the decision.

Freshly showered, we first went over to the playground opposite to swing and laughed ourselves silly at ourselves. It’s just always sooo much fun. Then in the supermarket we searched like crazy for olives and anchovies. At our hostel we pushed the tables into the sun and had a glorious evening.

Later Beate from Austria joined us, because our constant cackling had made her curious. I fetched us a second bottle of wine and some woollen blankets, and so we sat there until 10:30 p.m. telling each other all sorts of things.

That was a really great evening once again.

Stage 27: Cacabelos – Vega de Valcarce (28 km)

This morning I really didn’t feel like setting off at all. I was still a bit tired and somehow exhausted.

Without breakfast, armed with a banana, I set off in the dark. It was supposed to be 7 km to breakfast in Villafranca. The sandwich and the café did me good. My body felt as if it already had 15 km behind it.

We also briefly ran into Hochez and Santi again; the two of them sprinted over the mountain today. Shortly after a bridge Andrea and I then followed the Camino Duro, a steep climb, 2 km longer than the main route, but not along the road.

Tonight I’m sooo glad we decided to do it. The path was dreamily beautiful. My tiredness vanished and my good mood quickly came back. The view was magnificent and the effort was so totally worth it! This wide open space, vineyards, mountains, chestnut trees, pine forests. It smelled of lavender, and oregano, peppermint and thyme grew along the edges of the path.

I couldn’t look and breathe as much as I would have liked, to soak it all up forever. Indescribably beautiful!

At a small albergue 7 km before the finish I had a cheesecake with chestnuts. After 28 km we rolled into the village around 5 p.m. and ended up at Pensión Fernández with Maria, in a 16-bed dorm. It’s simply furnished. Maria went to such incredible lengths to whip up a lovingly made menu for us – I haven’t eaten so well in a long time. Incredibly tasty and beautifully presented. For that I’m happy to sleep in a dorm… the food and the hospitality here are amazing.

Alongside all our deep conversations, we also laugh so wonderfully much here.

The day was so special and beautiful again!

Stage 28: Vega de Valcarce – Fonfría (24 km)

Just as lovingly as Maria prepared dinner yesterday, she carried on in the morning with breakfast. Andrea and I didn’t get going until 8:30. But we were relaxed anyway.

Today O Cebreiro lay ahead of us with its 1,300 m of climbing. The path climbed steadily over gravel tracks and through deciduous forests. But I didn’t find it especially strenuous. If anything, the time and the km flew by.

Sadly, I keep coming across sad dogs along the way. They’re locked up in small boxes or kennels and howl or bark terribly. Yesterday I already passed one of these poor animals and burst into tears because he was crying so dreadfully. Today there were another 4 dogs sitting in a small trailer by the path. I don’t understand it – there would be sooo much space here! This is such a wonderful little corner of the earth, you could make it nice for the dogs, but you get the impression that a dog’s life is worth nothing at all here! It’s so awful. I don’t understand it – when I look into an animal’s eyes, surely there’s a soul in there? How is it possible that there are people who feel nothing about that? I wrote down the places where I noticed the animals and I’m going to try to find out from Hamburg what can be done. Sadly, I was told here that the animals would just be picked up and killed.

These are experiences here that make me really terribly sad.

Today I reached Galicia. From here on it’s supposed to rain more often. In return it’s hilly and green. It’s less than 150 km to Santiago.

Tonight I’m in a big but well-organised and modern albergue. There’s a traditional Galician dinner. Beate caught up with us too. Hochez and Santi are in the same place. With UNO and magic tricks we had a sooo funny evening…

Gosh, we don’t even know each other, but it feels like we’ve been friends forever.

Stage 29: Fonfría – Sarria (26 km)

Today started with drizzle. Even so, I set off still in shorts. I broke away from the others pretty quickly, because somehow I can only really handle a lot of talking in the evening, not in the morning. At least that’s how it is right now.

I passed through a few small Spanish hamlets that looked abandoned and crumbling, but behind the walls of the houses I could hear the clatter of pots and voices. The forests I walked through today seemed enchanted. Ivy climbed up every tree. Thousands of chestnuts lay on the path; I would have loved to gather them all up and roast them in my oven in Hamburg in the autumn… if my backpack weren’t heavy enough already. Now and then I picked one up just to feel its smooth surface. A worry stone.

Today I was at peace with myself, but something is also bubbling inside. I can’t quite grasp what it is. Am I getting wistful because the Camino will soon be over? 7 weeks ago I was still afraid of being away from home for so long. Now I’m afraid that my daily runs around the Alster won’t be enough to calm me down.

I’m looking forward to home, I’m looking forward to my family, my work, my new time without evening school, without study stress, without exams.

I’m done… is anyone ever done? Can I be satisfied with being done? No idea! Today I booked my room in Finisterre.

For now I’m going to enjoy the last week of my journey.

Stage 30: Sarria – Portomarín (25 km)

Sarria didn’t blow me away… what did were the crowds of people who set off on the path alongside Andrea and me in the morning. With small backpacks, heavy boots or flimsy little shoes.

Everyone poured out of town like a river, and I tried to adjust to the flow so that I didn’t feel it was slowing me down.

I don’t know whether it was down to my fitness or whether it was more like running away from the masses? I wanted to get past! Every time I’d overtaken one group, a new one appeared in front of me.

After about 10 km I put my headphones on and, with the help of the music, sank into my memories of the last days on the Camino. For a short while I had the stretch to myself.

I’m longing to be back on the Meseta. I’d imagined Galicia differently. But it doesn’t matter… I’ve had sooo many beautiful days, weeks, and soon it’ll be two months on the Camino, so I can calmly say now that walking these crowded stages is probably just part of it.

When we arrived in Portomarín, the first albergue was completo, full, and so was the next hostel. We got in at the one after that. 2 rooms with 28 beds, 2 toilets for 60 people. The showers were cold and somehow everything here is too cramped for me. Breathe… breathe…. breathe… Andrea said to me, I’m not doing this for another 4 days!!!

Me neither! Freshly cold-showered, we first went out for a really delicious meal. Loads of familiar faces are here in town… I’m a bit tired of listening to all the different languages, and I often find it a shame that I don’t speak Spanish. It’s still 90 km to Santiago….

Slowly I’m realising: I want to arrive, and then that’s enough! The last 90 km will be different from all the weeks so far.

Since today it’s been rather less spiritual. When I look at all the people here limping and plagued by blisters, I’m really very glad that my body has coped so incredibly well that I’ve been able to enjoy it without any major aches and pains – and still can.

I’m looking forward to tomorrow… the accommodation is already booked and it won’t be a 60-person albergue.

A little smaller…

Stage 31: Portomarín – Palas de Rei (23 km)

The night in the albergue was unbelievable – I couldn’t believe my ears when, around 11 p.m., the lady above me got a visitor and I could hear the whispering and giggling. Luckily the male fellow pilgrim was only heavy enough that the bed didn’t collapse with the two of them on top of me. I don’t even want to know what those two were getting up to. Gosh, I didn’t really know whether to burst out laughing or, annoyed, stick my headphones in. In the end I just lay there thinking, come on, get it over with so I can sleep! After about 30 minutes the guy was finally back in his own bed above Andrea.

28 people in bunk beds and some of them actually crawl in together. Whaaat the fuck! And right above meeeee!!!!

This morning, in a thunderstorm with lightning and thunder, Andrea and I marched straight along the path, a bit brainlessly (since it’s not exactly without danger) but above all without breakfast!

After 10 minutes I was soaked right through to my underwear and thought… today I’m not stopping… today I’m going to run straight through!!! Water dripped from my hair and my nose, my shoes squelched with every step. Everything stuck to my body.

Well, after 7 km there was an albergue with a good breakfast.

Like all the 5,000 other pilgrims, I went in, ordered a huge baguette with egg and took off my wet things. I put on my shortest shorts, because wet, bare legs are more pleasant than wet, covered legs.

After demolishing half a bar of chocolate, there was no stopping me. The next 18 km without a break and wet the whole time.

At first close to tears, at the end laughing out loud and full of energy – I just found it bloody awesome!

My blisters were back, and with every step I had the feeling a bikini wouldn’t be a bad idea right now. What a day… I’m glad we’ve got a room to ourselves today.

Now that we’ve arrived, the sun is shining.

I think today was a test of whether I’d really not get into a taxi. No, you up there on your cloud, whoever you are, I won’t!!!

Stage 32: Palas de Rei – Arzúa (32 km)

“Sabrina, get up! 7:45!”

Wowww, I slept so well. That was really good for once. And finally not setting off in the dark.

My blisters were twinging on my feet right from the start. “Oh great,” I thought, and now two days of over 30 km in the rain – this is going to be fun! But hey, after 10 km my feet felt numb and it went almost by itself!

After 5 km there was breakfast, as always tortilla, zumo and café con leche. The pilgrim crowds don’t bother me anymore! If anything, I’m enjoying the infectious good mood of the Spaniards on the way.

After 10 km came the expected downpour. First I fled into the next café and tried, with deep belly breathing and my inner voice, to convince myself: “Sabrina, you can do this!” First of all that called for a croissant and sugar in my café!

OK! Let’s go! Out into freedom… into the rain! I don’t know how, but I flew!

I listened to music again! Anything that somehow helped carry me… through puddles and mud… what can I say, it worked!

The albergue where we actually wanted to put ourselves through it one more time is beautiful. It’s supposed to have over 100 beds. My room has 8, and there are three of us. The other rooms have 20 beds and are full. Super pretty, stylish furnishings and clean. So no getting rid of sins and suffering. That’s probably why it’s raining so much!

Just now, over a glass of wine and a foot massage in one of those massage machines, Andrea and I realised in horror that tomorrow we have to walk 39.8 km. The plan says 34 km, but the Outdooractive app says 39.8 km – and unfortunately so do the markers along the path and the calculator!

Holy crap! Tomorrow I’m going to cry, I know that already! I don’t care! Maybe someone will carry me? Like the ones who collapse just before the finish line at a marathon! I looooove drama… like in the movies… no, nonsense! I can do this! It’s going to be awesome and I’m so, so excited about tomorrow!

Stage 33: Arzúa – Santiago de Compostela (40 km)

I’m lying in my bed in the hotel room, wiped out but very happy. The day was long and it’s already almost 10 p.m. This was the last day of my Camino, at least on foot! The last km.

This morning at 7:30 my feet started out on dry ground. After just a few minutes I felt such an indescribable lightness inside me – today I’m going to arrive! My body told me: “Don’t worry, I’ll see this through with you!”

The path led through long stretches of beautiful eucalyptus forest. Ivy and moss-covered stones and trunks. So often today I took a deep breath, and again and again I had to fight not to burst into tears. Not from aches and pains, there weren’t any, but from wistfulness, from happiness and deep gratitude.

The km just rattled by and I simply didn’t want to arrive. Very deliberately I took a break wherever I could, to enjoy every minute and give my body new energy. At the 13 km marker I already had 26 km behind me and thought: “Ohhh no, only 13 km to go.” I didn’t want to arrive….

This journey was something so incredibly special for me; these impressions and insights will stay with me forever. At some point my tears simply came… tears of happiness. 5 km before Santiago I waited for Andrea.

We walked into the city together.

I have to say that the walk to the cathedral didn’t grip me as emotionally as many sections of my Camino did.

Rather, later in the cathedral after the pilgrims’ mass, with the beautiful church singing, I was deeply at peace with myself; breathing deeply, I just sat there and felt so free and content inside that it’s hard to describe.

I lit one last candle for someone I wish with all my heart that she makes it, and now, after my shower, I’m celebrating my arrival in Santiago by simply going to sleep!

Day 34: Arrived in Santiago

Slept in….

Arrived…. Really arrived!

Wandering through the alleys….

In the rain, completely at one with myself….

Happiness in my heart….

Happiness in my belly….

Happiness everywhere….

Deep breath…

Wine….pulpo…tortilla…grated tomato (no idea if there’s a name for it)

Not walking today? How’s that supposed to work?

What do I do with myself?

Back to the hotel room… dancing on the mattress, jumping on the bed and blasting Spanish music! (Quevedo playlist)

That was super!

Dinner with Bea and Andrea… sitting across from each other with tears in our eyes… the last evening in Santiago!

The Camino was insane…

My life is sooooo beautiful!

Gratitude…. contentment….words can’t say much more!

Day 35: Looking back

All the memories of the last weeks are coming back. The beginning of my journey was so hesitant and cautious. Breaking off my Camino in July had made me pretty unsure of myself and taken the wind out of my sails. Maybe I just wasn’t strong enough for something like this after all?

With every step, with every day, with every village I walked through, the confidence came! The love for the Camino and the trust in myself!

Putting on my backpack every morning and getting by with only what I have! Sharing the same goal with so many people.

I was so lucky with the weather; the sun was my constant companion. My euphoria for this adventure grew beyond measure, and I was so free and happy just to be there! I’d never travelled alone for so long, and I’ve been in a relationship for over 24 years.

In the first two weeks so much came up in me that I didn’t know how to sort out my thoughts properly. My brain threw lots of things around like a wild storm… one topic a day, I told myself! Sabrina, just one topic a day! That wasn’t easy; things came up that I hadn’t expected at all.

I tried to sort myself out, and thanks to the meditative walking and the many weeks, I managed to give each topic its time, one after the other… some topics needed more than one day, even more than two!

With every topic came tears, heavy and happy feelings deep in my heart!

I consciously learned to let feelings come and let feelings go. Breathing out, and with it the negative energy! That helped me so much! Joy of life!!! Tears run down my cheeks because I so often have to laugh so heartily!

By consciously allowing all my thoughts, by crying along the way, by walking away from things and towards something new, I let go of everything! Bit by bit and day by day I lost heavy stones from my soul!

I breathed, I danced, I just screamed them out, all my feelings, and so I was able to feel more and more happiness and make inner peace with everything.

I could feel myself becoming calmer and the storm inside me turning into more of a gentle breeze. Noticeable, but more like a warm, pleasant breath that belonged to me. That’s allowed to stay!

All these experiences make me who I am.

I know now that things are more bearable when you can accept them and even draw strength from them!

What I didn’t trust myself to do at the beginning is now something I’ll miss painfully, but with complete contentment! My Camino! My experiences and encounters along the way! The routine of the Camino!

Setting off in the dark, the clear goal in front of me, always following the arrows, the simplicity of the Camino!

These incredible expanses of nature, forests, mountains, fields – I’ll never forget those images. Fresh air all day long. Just me and the wide open space around me!

The bars that play Spanish music first thing in the morning, and us pilgrims eating tortillas and drinking café con leche. The happy faces beaming at me, sometimes just glancing up but always calling out a “Buen Camino”, the albergues that aren’t always comfortable but are always filled with so many characters that you never fall asleep alone!

The shandies that taste good even at lunchtime. The nights, often accompanied by snorers and phone noises, but still so restful.

I’ve never been better rested than on the Camino!

The cool mornings with every wonderful sunrise that appears in the sky just for me, and in whose light my face looks so radiant, beautiful and healthy.

The churches, the churches that gave me so much warmth and humility, the church where I threw down my backpack and screamed at the cross, “What are you doing to me?”, sobbing on my knees! And then a hymn began to play! Oh God, did I cry! Sooo much… loudly and all alone. Until I couldn’t anymore and there were no tears left. Then I said thank you and heard a voice telling me: “You’re good! Keep going!”

“OK, OK, I’m going, I’m going on,” I sobbed, lifted my backpack off the floor, put it on my back and left that church with deep contentment and great strength! Firmly determined and totally liberated.

In that minute I knew: “I’m going to arrive and nothing can stop me!” I finally really felt myself!

The last 5 km before Santiago, which are no problem with coffee liqueur – not even when we do the full 40 km for the first time.

Three days of pouring rain, soaked right through to my underwear! It was the rain of all things that taught me so much once again! Being invincible! Not giving up, no matter how hard it gets! It’s possible! Not only is it possible, it’s even fun!

It’s so beautiful it makes you cry! My journey has given me so much… so many insights, so many deep emotions, so much laughter, so much freedom….I am endlessly grateful.

Now the journey home feels like a painful stab in the heart, which I know is part of it and is allowed to be there!

Everyday life will come back, but I’ll be a different person, a stronger one, a more aware one, a more grateful one, one who is good to herself and never forgets herself again!

One who is never again afraid of something as wonderful as the Camino de Santiago.

One who can do anything, but doesn’t have to do anything!

Sabrina David, October 2022

Here you can follow Sabrina on Instagram.

The Camino in Camino Ninja

You’ll find the Camino Francés with stages, map and accommodation in Camino Ninja: Camino Francés.