A couple sets out on an adventure: 280 km of pure magic along the Portuguese Coastal Path. Walking in perfect harmony, the sound of the sea in their ears. Just set off!
July 1, 202610 min read
A very personal account of a pilgrimage
Making the Decision
My wife Birgit (58) and I (65) decided very quickly that we would walk the Portuguese Way of St. James from the port city of Porto in Portugal to the legendary pilgrimage city of Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
To that spiritual city in Galicia where the remains of St. James the Apostle are enshrined in the local cathedral. We want to experience for ourselves what has driven millions of people since the 9th century, when the Apostle’s tomb was discovered. To walk a portion of that path, which is steeped in myths and adventure.
From Porto Along the Atlantic Coast
After spending a day exploring the beautiful city of Porto, known for its many tiled facades (azulejos), we’re finally on our way. Well-prepared, we set out on May 6, 2019, on the approximately 280-kilometer-long coastal trail known as the “Caminho Portugués.”
We divided the entire route into 13 stages, which meant we had to cover an average of about 20 kilometers a day. That should be doable given the mostly flat terrain. We booked our accommodations in advance, and that was a good decision.
Many pilgrims were already on the road in May, which is why some accommodations along the increasingly popular coastal route were fully booked. One pilgrim told us that he had to walk another 8 kilometers to find a place to stay for the night.
From now on, our backpacks are our constant companions. For the first two days, I curse it as a pesky 10-kilo burden on my back. By the third day, I don’t even notice it anymore, and by the fourth day, I actually miss it when I take it off. Fortunately, the hiking boots are comfortable and well-broken-in; put them on and you don’t feel your feet anymore—that’s how it should be. None of us had blisters on our feet. And to get this out of the way: no, there was no marital strife—quite the opposite. We walked in harmony at the same pace and enjoyed the diverse new sights. It was a shared pilgrimage with all our senses.
In the truest sense of the word. We saw, heard, smelled, and tasted so many new things.
The first five stages in Portugal run along the Atlantic coast. To the left, you can always hear the mighty roar of the sea and the unmistakable cries of the seagulls.
In warm but windy weather, we walk for miles—often alone—at a leisurely and relaxed pace along well-maintained boardwalks, through secluded dunes and coves that invite us to stop for a moment and catch our breath, past idyllic beaches and small, sleepy villages. Every now and then there are light rain showers, which don’t bother us.
On the Trail: Fellow Pilgrims and Yellow Arrows
Every now and then we come across other pilgrims, and we exchange the customary pilgrim greeting, “buen camino.” With some, we strike up a longer conversation and walk part of the way together. We often run into the same people again and again along the route, and everyone is happy to see each other again.
My wife is fascinated by the calla lilies and strelitzias that grow wild almost everywhere. She’s also really taken with the fresh fish we enjoy here every evening.
The yellow arrow, which is reliably posted everywhere and clearly marks the Way of St. James, serves as our guide. Unfortunately, the coastal route in Portugal isn’t quite finished yet, so we’re frequently led inland onto less attractive paths. But we always find our way back to the sea.
Here in Portugal, in particular, many people approach us in a friendly manner; some have worked in Germany—mostly at the Port of Hamburg—and speak a little German. They admire our journey and wish us a Portuguese “bom caminho” or “bom dia.” Others have walked the Camino de Santiago themselves and are happy to give us insider tips and recommendations for stopping for a short break. Always look for the cafés that the locals frequent. Good advice, as we’ve also noticed from the reasonable prices. We were welcomed everywhere. Recognized as pilgrims—after all, we wear the scallop shell, the pilgrim’s symbol, on our backpacks—people show us great respect and seek to strike up a conversation.
Often, a simple “thumbs up” is enough. Many drivers honk their horns in appreciation.
A Blessing We'll Never Forget
We had an unforgettable and very emotional encounter right on the third leg of our journey. We visited the little church of St. Michael behind the town of Esposende. It’s part of our ritual to visit churches, take a moment to unwind, reflect, light a candle, and, admittedly, also to cool off a bit—it was a very warm 29 degrees that day.
You can often get a pilgrim’s stamp for your pilgrim’s passport at churches. The daily stamps document the distance traveled along with the date, so that you can later receive the pilgrim’s certificate, the Compostela, in Santiago de Compostela.
Unfortunately, the church is closed, and we are about to walk away disappointed when an elderly man appears. We can tell from his clothes that he is the priest. He unlocks the church and beckons us inside. In rapid-fire Portuguese, he explains the church to us
We don't understand a word. Then he invites us into the sacristy. He delights us and our pilgrim's booklet with a rare stamp and his signature.
Then he places his hands over our heads and gives us his personal pilgrim’s blessing. Afterward, we pray the “Our Father” together—he in Portuguese and we in German. We are deeply moved. I am not ashamed of my tears. As we continue on our way, still completely overwhelmed and silent, the priest runs after us, handing us a piece of paper with a German prayer and a wooden figurine of Jesus. We say a warm goodbye.
We didn't talk much during that part of the trip.
Crossing into Spain
On the fifth leg of our journey, we reach the border with Spain, which runs right down the middle of the Rio Mino River. It’s customary to take the ferry across here, but unfortunately we miss it by five minutes. A motorized fishing boat then takes us across for 5 euros on a fast and wet ride.
So now it’s on to 8 stages in Spain. It’s time to say “buen camino” and “buen dia” again, and the clock is set forward one hour.
Galicia welcomes us with a heavy rain shower and a warm 18 degrees, and we head uphill for the first time toward Monte Santa Tegra and a well-preserved Celtic village. The first four stages then lead us repeatedly up and down rocky paths—trails originally built by the Romans and Celts—along the somewhat rougher and wilder Atlantic coast, accompanied by a strong breeze.
The yellow arrows are complemented by the distinctive and unmistakable milestones, which not only safely guide us along the rest of the way to our destination but also indicate the number of kilometers remaining to Santiago de Compostela.
Lighthouses, ancient monasteries, and crumbling castle ruins alternate with small fishing villages, idyllic coves, and bustling harbors.
On the tenth stage, we reach the historic town of Pontevedra, the capital of the Portuguese Coastal Route. The local church, “La Peregrina,” is shaped like a scallop shell, and a visit there is a must for every pilgrim.
The Galician landscape becomes more varied, taking us across lush meadows, through fields, and along small rivers.
The trail through the fragrant eucalyptus forest is truly impressive; we breathe in and out deeply, taking in the fresh air, and feel pleasantly refreshed.
A truly special experience of nature.
Lush lemon and orange trees delight my wife just as much as the countless
Horreos, these distinctive storage structures for fruit and corn, built of stone or wood on pillars.
The Final Push to Santiago
On the penultimate stage of our journey, we arrive in Padrón, where, according to tradition, the boat carrying the body of the Apostle James is said to have docked at a rock. We visit the impressive Church of St. James and can also see, behind the altar, the massive rock where the boat is said to have docked.
At the market square, we meet a 57-year-old Dutchman who, from his appearance, looks like a well-groomed pilgrim. He tells us that he left home at 17, led an eventful life at sea for 20 years, and has now been living on the streets for 20 years. He says he cannot and does not want to imagine a different life. We invite him to dinner and get to know a likable person who seems at peace with his life.
The final stage to Santiago de Compostela is upon us. A sense of anticipation, but also a touch of sadness that the journey is coming to an end, sets in when the milestone suddenly shows that there are only 10 kilometers left to the finish line.
Finally, we stand in awe on the vast forecourt of the imposing Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Incredible scenes are unfolding. People are dancing with joy, strangers are hugging each other, tears are flowing, the ground is being kissed, people are singing and laughing—and, of course, taking pictures.
We, too, are deeply moved and overwhelmed; we sit in silence on the square for a long time, trying to find our inner peace and simply letting the atmosphere wash over us.
It wasn't until much later that we visited the cathedral (which is currently undergoing interior renovations), embraced the statue of St. James, and proudly received our pilgrim's certificate.
We had an impressive and memorable experience.
The People Who Made It Memorable
We met many interesting people from all over the world and had some lovely encounters.
There was the ever-smiling Japanese couple, who, taking small steps, seemed to be more of a strolling tour than a pilgrimage along the Camino de Santiago.
There was a young Czech woman who was connected to her boyfriend in Prague via her cell phone and was constantly filming and updating him; he was tracking her location via GPS.
There was the Irishman who thanked us warmly for the brief conversation and called us “real Germans”—after all, he said, we weren’t from the East or from Bavaria.
There were those two somewhat "clueless" ladies from Lake Constance who kept getting lost but still made it to their destination.
There was the Spaniard who led us across town to our lodging and told us about his four trips along the Camino de Santiago.
And there was the singing nun in the church who, when asked about her wonderful voice, replied, “God gave me this voice for you!”
What the Camino Left Behind
No, we haven't reached our physical limits, and we arrived safely.
We haven't met God in person (or have we?), but we have encountered his diverse, wonderful creatures and impressive works.
And for that, we are very grateful. Buen Camino.
Karl Hofstätter
Our Tour
Day 1: Flight from Frankfurt to Porto
Day 2: Tour of Porto
Day 3 (23 km): First stage from Porto-Matosinhos to Povoa de Varzim
Day 4 (22 km): Second stage from Povoa de Varzim to Esposende
Day 5 (24 km): Third stage from Esposende to Viana do Castelo
Day 6 (25 km): Fourth stage from Viana do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora
Day 7 (22 km): Fifth stage from Vila Praia de Ancora to A Guarda, Spain
Day 8 (20 km): Sixth stage from A Guarda to Viladesuso
Day 9 (20 km): Seventh stage from Viladesuso to Baiona
Day 10 (25 km): Eighth stage from Baiona to Vigo
Day 11 (22 km): Ninth stage from Vigo to Arcade
Day 12 (16 km): Tenth stage from Arcade to Pontevedra
Day 13 (21 km): Eleventh stage from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
Day 14 (28 km): Twelfth stage from Caldas de Reis to Padrón
Day 15 (22 km): Thirteenth stage from Padrón to Santiago de Compostela
Day 16: Tour of Santiago de Compostela
Day 17: Return flight from Santiago de Compostela to Frankfurt
