Jakob Engel's report of the popular Moselle Camino from Lahnstein to Trier, including Eltz Castle, vineyards, and encounters with fellow pilgrims.
July 1, 20266 min read
In 2020, Jakob Engel walked the Way of St. James from Görlitz to Trier over the course of 45 days. On his 1,010-kilometer journey, he set out from Görlitz in August amid midsummer temperatures and arrived in Trier on October 2 in the fall and in the rain, completing four official German Way of St. James routes in succession. We have therefore divided his pilgrimage report into these four articles:
The Mosel Camino greeted me with gray, autumnal weather. It started raining two minutes before I arrived at my lodging in Alken. I’d say that was good timing. On the way to Alken, there was a highway rest stop along the route. It was both funny and strange to take a break there. A pilgrim and hiker at a highway rest stop… The nice lady behind the counter recognized from the scallop shell on my backpack that I was on the Camino de Santiago and asked if I wanted a stamp for my pilgrim’s passport. I hadn’t expected that at a highway rest stop. Sometimes two such different modes of travel are so close together.
The Start of the Mosel Camino
View from my guesthouse in Alken
Finding a place to stay for the first two days along the Moselle was the hardest part of my entire journey. When I called guesthouses and hotels, some of them laughed at me because I was trying to find a room so late in the game. By my standards, I had started looking early—about a week and a half in advance. One hotel told me they’d been fully booked for two months. A kind lady at the tourist information office in Treis-Karden was then able to help me and found me a room in Pommern. Until then, I’d thought Pommern was located somewhere else geographically—much further to the northeast. You never stop learning.
Eltz Castle
It was clear to see along the Moselle that many pilgrims were walking there
I was told that the Mosel Camino is the most popular German Way of St. James. I can confirm that I met more pilgrims here than on the previous three sections of my journey. After walking alone for a good 800 km, I enjoyed meeting other pilgrims here with whom I walked some stretches together. Thank you for the nice company and the exciting and funny conversations!
One of the best parts was passing by orchard meadows every day, where I could stock up on delicious apples. My hiking poles came in handy here for picking apples that were hanging higher up. Of course, I didn’t pass up the delicious Riesling grapes either.
Beilstein. Right next to the church, they had the best cake of the whole trip.
Moselle Loop
Autumn has arrived
On the last day, I was able to see Trier Cathedral for the first time from the steep bank on the opposite side of the Moselle. It was a wonderful yet slightly bittersweet feeling. On the one hand, it was nice to have my destination in sight, but on the other hand, it was a shame to know that my journey was coming to an end.
On my last day, I got caught in the rain for the second time. The first time was on my very first day, on the way from Görlitz to Melaune. Someone was smiling down at me then.
I had a memorable moment at the end of my journey when I arrived at St. Matthias Abbey, the official end of the Mosel Camino. The moment I stepped over the threshold of the church, the bell rang. What a beautiful way to be welcomed after so many kilometers, experiences, and impressions.
A first glimpse of Trier Cathedral (still very small)
Matthias Abtei, the official end of the Mosel Camino
The Tomb of the Apostle Matthias
Trier Cathedral, the end of my pilgrimage on the Way of St. James
I spent my last evening with four fellow pilgrims. We treated ourselves to a delicious farewell dinner in downtown Trier. The four ladies headed home the next morning. I stayed in Trier for a total of three nights before heading back to Düsseldorf myself.
As far as COVID-19 is concerned, I can say that despite the pandemic, I didn’t face any restrictions while traveling and met many very friendly and laid-back people. The trip will be a lasting memory!
To everyone who wants to walk the Camino de Santiago: Have a safe journey!
The Outdoor Pilgrim Guides accompanied me on my four German routes of the Way of St. James. For me, these were the right hiking guides. For the Via Regia, I also picked up the pilgrim guide published by the Ökumenischer Pilgerweg e.V. This guide is very detailed and lists all the pilgrim hostels along the route. These are not included in the Outdoor guide. For anyone who wants to stay in hostels, this pilgrim guide is therefore the better choice. I left this guide at home, partly for weight reasons.
In addition to the pilgrim guides, further information about the routes is also available online. On thePage of the Ecumenical Pilgrimage Routeincludes up-to-date information on accommodations, among other things. TheWebsite for the Elisabeth Traillists accommodations, including those reserved exclusively for pilgrims. I’ve found some really nice places to stay. I’ve heard there’s a website for the Moselle Camino, but I haven’t used it, so I can’t say anything about it.
The GPS data for all four Routes of St. James is available on the website of the publisher of the Outdoor Pilgrim Guides. I mainly used komoot for this data. I only downloaded AllTrails for the Lahn Hiking Trail from Marburg to Wetzlar, since the stages of the Lahn Hiking Trail are available there. The pilgrim guides were often very helpful for finding accommodations. Otherwise, I recommend Google Maps; I used it to look for guesthouses and almost always found something. The reviews are also a big plus here.
Finally, I’d like to share a personal reflection. For me, 2020 was one of the best years ever! I had the luxury of taking an extended break, and I enjoyed that time to the fullest and made the most of it!
I would like to encourage anyone considering walking the Camino de Santiago to also consider the many beautiful German routes of the Camino! I had a wonderful time and a deeply meaningful experience.
My travel companions on the Camino de Santiago
Conclusion on the Mosel Camino: After spending some time alone, it’s nice to go for a walk with others. I only like Riesling as grapes, not as wine.
My overall takeaway from the entire Camino de Santiago: Thank you! This journey has given me new perspectives and opened my eyes and my heart.
My stops along the Mosel Camino:
Alken
Pomerania (I walked to Pomerania because I couldn't find a place to stay in Treis-Karden)
