The Way of St. James from Constance to Basel: An informative travelogue featuring practical tips, highlights along the route, and experiences along the Upper Rhine.
July 1, 202618 min read
A brief overview to get you started
Seven eventful, reflective, and sometimes challenging days. We traveled 180 km through the colorful late autumn landscape, rich in culture and history. From the Celts to the Romans and the many ancient and modern Christian religious buildings, there was a wealth of culture to experience.
October 11–17, 2017
Right from the start, as I passed the Bishop’s Palace in Markdorf, the connection to my starting point, Constance, became clear. During the Council of Constance, Markdorf served as the summer residence of the bishops of Constance. Meersburg also bears clear traces of this era. In Constance, the actual Council building stands as a reminder of that time 600 years ago.
Which is the most beautiful section of the Camino de Santiago?
Time and again, curious “non-pilgrims” ask me these questions. I always tell them that this isn’t a valid question and that making judgments doesn’t help the pilgrim. It would be just as difficult to answer the question of which part of our life’s journey was particularly remarkable.
But yes, the route from Konstanz to Basel really has something special about it! Especially when you’re treated to “Golden October” with perfect weather and the trees decked out in their most beautiful, vibrant, and colorful foliage.
Visitors who are captivated not only by the region’s magnificent, colorful natural beauty but also by its history will be impressed by what it has to offer—from the Celts, through the Romans, the Alemanni, the Franks, the Merovingians, the Carolingians, and the Staufers, all the way to the territories of Further Austria.
The Reformation, Helvetia, the Peasants' Wars, and workers' uprisings are also evident from place to place. Many castles and palaces line the route. Magnificent churches and monasteries bear witness to a turbulent era in a truly unique region.
Rediscover old routes! That could be the motto for this hike.
Even in the “old days,” the goal of reaching the pilgrimage hub of Basel was to follow the route from Constance along the Rhine. The new signage and description of this route by Berthold Burkhardt and Hans-Jörg Bahmüller is a valuable addition.
How far is it to Santiago, actually?
This question comes up time and again, and there are people today who want to answer it with pinpoint accuracy using GPS. The result is always imprecise and, for many curious people, highly unsatisfying. It’s also true that the routes marked today don’t correspond to the “original” routes, because nobody likes to walk on highways or major roads. There are also several variations, and besides, it doesn’t really matter, because it’s the enjoyment of the journey that draws the pilgrim.
Well, let’s give it a try anyway, just to satisfy my curiosity. According to the sign in Konstanz, the distance from Konstanz via Einsiedeln is 2,340 km. Via Basel, Gy, and Le Puy it’s 2,374 km, and via Basel and Vézelay it’s 2,227 km.
Conclusion: There is no point in discussing the difference, because the detours caused by careless mistakes along the way are far more serious.
It’s always special to meet people along the way who are happy to stop for a quick chat.
It is also surprising how many people report that they have walked sections of the Camino de Santiago and have even reached the destination in Santiago de Compostela.
I am writing this pilgrimage account for myself, to relive those beautiful, eventful days, reflect on them more deeply, and keep them from fading from memory. Perhaps it will also serve as a small resource for planning—or even as inspiration—for one or two fellow pilgrims. For many people who are unable to walk, I hope this serves as a firsthand account.
I chose this path specifically for my mother-in-law, Erika, who passed away recently, just before her 90th birthday. It is a blessing to be able to move about freely.
It was another wonderful experience to be out and about on my own, feeling light and free.
Konstanz – Mammern
25 km, sunny and warm
The trip starts at the bus stop in Leimbach. The bus is mostly filled with students heading to Markdorf and Meersburg. My grandchildren Ida and Mathis are also on board; they’re accompanying me to Meersburg. A few years ago, I traveled with both of them from Brochenzell to Konstanz. The young generation of tomorrow is surprised that a grandpa with a backpack would voluntarily set out on this journey. Once we arrive on the ferry, a beautiful sunrise appears and the day awakens.
Once I arrive in Konstanz, the path takes me past the Council Building; with the Imperia and its meaningful symbolism in view, I make my way to the cathedral.
For centuries, this has been the starting point for pilgrims heading southwest toward Spain.
No pilgrim has ever set out without seeing the Rotunda of St. James. I wasn’t able to experience that moment, because I simply arrived too early and the doors were locked. I paused briefly in front of the Marian Column, and then I was on my way.
I pass St. Stephen’s Church and Luther Church on my way to the Tägerwilen border crossing into Switzerland. Before I know it, I’m walking through vegetable fields, and the farmers greet me with a friendly “Grüezi.” By the way, I’m already a foreigner now. That’s how fast it happens!
It’s not far before I reach the reed-lined shore of Lake Constance, and through the fog I can make out the buildings of Konstanz on the opposite bank. The next town is steeped in history, for it was here in Gottlieben, at Drachenburg Castle, that Jan Hus and one of the “three” popes (John XXIII) were imprisoned. Jan Hus was later burned at the stake.
This tranquil spot attracts tourists year-round. In fact, three motorcyclists from Bamberg were just about to set off; they approached me sympathetically and offered me a ride on their “hell machines.” Everything has its time! I was set on making a pilgrimage.
The lakeside path offers a series of peaceful, idyllic views that evoke a sense of contentment and happiness. The route is well-known for the many bike tours around the lake.
The experience, however, is quite different, because the movement is much slower and more deliberate. The sheer amount of time it takes a hiker to watch the island of Reichenau pass by is impressive.
Soon you’ll also catch a glimpse of the Höri peninsula on the other side of Lake Untersee. Triboltingen, Ermatingen, Salenstein, Mannenbach, Berlingen, and Steckborn are the charming towns along the route. The old and ancient Alemannic half-timbered houses, all of which are well-maintained, tell an interesting story. Not to be forgotten is the Arenenberg estate, which is closely associated with Napoleon III and his family.
Everywhere in the gardens, people are working busily. Huge piles of old, venerable trees line my path. Why was this natural splendor removed? A gardener explains it to me. The storm on the night of August 2 wreaked havoc here on a scale that goes beyond the memory of a single generation. Willows, poplars, and conifers, some of which were over 200 years old, were toppled by the storm.
In Mammern, not far from Stein am Rhein, I started looking for a place to stay. Romi and Rene Kuhn gave me a cozy room and were very kind hosts. A tiring but wonderful day came to an end.
Mammern – Schaffhausen
27 km of sunshine and warm weather
A very interesting conversation developed over the very hearty breakfast, as Rene had spent a great deal of time in Asia during his career and felt almost at home in China. It was hard to say goodbye, but I wanted to make the most of the morning hours to get an early start.
Eschenz soon came into view from a hilltop. In the background, Stein am Rhein and Klingenburg Castle glistened in the morning sun. At Eschenz, Lake Untersee comes to an end and the Rhine is reborn.
This unassuming place has a very significant Roman past. It was once a checkpoint on the trade route from the Rhine to Lake Constance and back. Remarkable archaeological finds bear witness to this era.
The monastery on the island of Werd is also a gem that bears witness to over 1,200 years of Christian history. Saint Ottmar, the founder of the Abbey of St. Gallen, was held captive here on Werd in his later years and died in 759.
It’s always fascinating to see the effect these places of power have when you’re open to the experience.
A labyrinth modeled after the one at Chartres Cathedral has also been laid out on this small patch of land. I walked the symbolic 444 meters thoughtfully and let myself be inspired.
Back on the shore, I read the interesting history of the Romans and the monastery on the information boards once again. Soon I reach Stein, where I come across scenes straight out of a calendar—ones I’ve never noticed before.
The route continues along the left bank of the Rhine to Wagenhausen. The former Benedictine provostry is situated right on the Rhine. The church is nearly 1,000 years old, making it one of the oldest Romanesque churches in eastern Switzerland. It’s enough to inspire a sense of awe.
The trails here are truly uniquely beautiful. They are exclusively footpaths and nature trails that run right along the Rhine. The next stop is the border town of Diesenhofen, with its 200-year-old wooden bridge leading to Gailingen, Germany. This town has been part of Thurgau since 1800.
The next highlight worth seeing is the former Dominican convent, Katharinental. For nearly 800 years, people have been working, building, and praying here. Today, it houses a rehabilitation clinic and a long-term care facility.
What follows are eight kilometers of pure nature: the Rhine, forests, reeds, marshes, and clear signs of hard-working beavers. Schaffhausen is then also in sight. A wonderful ensemble that has evolved over 10 centuries and has been part of the Swiss Confederation for 500 years. My path takes me across the Rhine bridge, through the well-kept old town, and up to the “Belair” youth hostel on Randenstraße. A feeling of happiness washes over me as I catch sight of these 500-year-old walls with their beautiful twin towers. That tower room up there—that’s the one!
And indeed, this room had been waiting for me. Hermann Hesse wrote his novel *Rosshalde* here in this house in 1914. There is a pleasant atmosphere in this house, and the Hesse Room offers peace and quiet and a pleasant opportunity to relax. An impressive day. Pilgrims need more than just their minds to find the way!
Schaffhausen – Kaiserhof
25 km, sunny and warm
I’m sitting at breakfast surrounded by several groups of children, listening to the different dialects of Switzerland. Once again, I’m up early and strolling toward the old town.
While I’m out walking, a passerby asks me where I’m headed. Although he’s actually supposed to be heading to the train station, he walks with me through an old, beautifully landscaped park and shows me a shortcut that takes me back to the Rhine. After a lively conversation, we go our separate ways. Isn’t that lovely?
The sun has regained the strength to dispel the haze. The autumnal atmosphere promises another beautiful day. Soon I’ll reach the first rapids. The roaring sound of the falling water can be heard. On the right bank of the Rhine, I’m approaching the Rhine Falls. Even though it’s so early, I’m not alone at this magnificent natural spectacle. People from all over the world have already been brought here by bus to admire the largest waterfall. I’ve never seen the waterfall from this side before.
After a half-hour walk, I left this place behind, both visually and aurally. Now I’m heading toward Altenburg along quiet paths. Lost in thought, I must have missed a trail marker, and soon I find myself in a pathless forest. But by following my instincts and listening carefully, I managed to find my way back to the “right path.”
Just before Rheinau, the trail markers came back into view. Mindfulness is a great companion in all situations.
The Rheinau Bridge has connected Germany and Switzerland since 1324. I’ve been on the German side of the Rhine for a while now. Via Balm, I arrive in Lottstetten. Like many German border towns, this town has expanded its parking lots in front of the shopping centers to accommodate the vehicles of Swiss customers. You can also hear Swiss German spoken in the local restaurants.
I’m taking a short break here before tackling the upcoming mountain section. The trail climbs from about 400 meters above sea level to 700 meters. The sun is beating down on my back, so I’m taking occasional short breaks.
Looking back is always a reward for the effort. Good thing my water bottle is full. I’m now on the Hochrhein Höhenweg. Soon the dense, colorful deciduous forest begins, and for many kilometers I’m simply alone in God’s beautiful nature. The sound of dry leaves under my feet accompanies me.
The green border with Switzerland shifts back and forth here. Next comes a ridge that runs along the mountain crest, which marks the exact borderline. Old, beautiful boundary stones point this out to me.
At an elevation of about 650 meters, I’m staying tonight at the Kaiserhof with the Kaiser family. The Kaisers still run their farm the old-fashioned way. All the classic farm animals can be found here. In addition, there are llamas, a breeding program for Australian shepherd dogs, and Chilean jumping mice. From here, I have a sweeping view of the Klettgau region.
Kaiserhof – Waldshut
25 km, sunny and warm
A hearty farmer’s breakfast gets me ready for the climb ahead. After gaining some elevation, I reach the fog line and now hope that the sun will be strong enough to clear the view. My wish is promptly granted after an hour, and the transmission tower on the Wannenberg is bathed in the morning sun. It is an incredible gift to be out and about on a day like this in a landscape like this.
The path continues to climb, and soon we reach the highest point of this pilgrimage, at 697 meters above sea level. I’m glad I chose this route. Every five minutes or so, huge white birds appear in the sky, descending toward Kloten. Anyone who occasionally follows reports from the Waldshut region in the media gets a sense here of what it means to live in a flight path.
It won’t be long now before I arrive in Küssaburg. The castle has been greeting me from afar for quite some time, inviting me to linger. This fortress was built 800 years ago and has had an eventful, turbulent history. There’s a very special atmosphere up here on the keep. The old walls are bathed in the sun’s warmest light. The view into the Rhine Valley and, on the other side, into the Klettgau is obscured by the thick blanket of fog. A few mountains are just barely peeking out from beneath the blanket of fog. And the white birds are humming constantly! I spend quite a while admiring this spectacle of nature and engineering before setting off on the steep descent to Bechtersbohl.
The path then climbs slightly again as it winds through the small village. From here on, the route heads downhill toward the Rhine. Above Unterlauchringen, an impressive memorial to those who fell in both world wars stands in a clearing. I sit here for a while, reflecting on the senseless wars, the millions of victims, the politicians’ thirst for power, and the greed of industry.
From here, it’s not far to the Wutach and Tiengen. Now I’m back amidst the noise of traffic and civilization. After a few kilometers through the industrial area, I reach the Rhine again and, from there, the mouth of the Aare. The Aare flows into the Rhine after a journey of just under 300 kilometers, coming from the Bernese Alps. It is the Rhine’s largest tributary in terms of water volume.
There’s a nice campground here that also offers rooms for pilgrims. I’ll be staying here tonight. But first, I want to visit the old town of Waldshut. Although I’ve been to Waldshut many times before, I’ve never really appreciated the beauty of the old town. I was also surprised by the eventful history of this 750-year-old town.
On the way back to our campsite, I realized just how precious the time is that an active retiree can spend out and about. What a luxury!
Waldshut – Bad Säckingen
31 km, sunny and warm
The Rhine glistens silver as I set out on the riverside path around 9:00 a.m. This is the second time I’ve walked this stretch of the path. It already feels familiar and is a real pleasure. The sun has completely dispelled the fog, allowing the Leibstadt Nuclear Power Plant in Switzerland to be seen in all its grandeur. A monument to modernity that pilgrims will still be able to see in 10,000 years. It will still be shining in 1,000,000 years. The ancient Roman ruins are just 2,000 years old.
Passing through Dogern, I reach Albbruck and cross back to the left, Swiss side of the Rhine. In Schwaderloch, I’m greeted by a guard bunker that was once used to secure the bridge. It’s Sunday, and the town is deserted. I’d expected a service at the church on the hill, but I ended up being the only visitor in that beautiful space.
I sang a few songs from the hymnbook. It sounded good, and I moved on feeling good. The path winds steeply uphill through the forest.
When I reach the edge of the forest, I can see the village of Ezgen down in the valley. A cross-country race is taking place there right now. Here, too, a woman strikes up a conversation with me; she made the pilgrimage from the Pyrenees to Santiago this past spring.
Passing through Sulz, where I once again come across Roman foundations, I reach the Rhine. Rafters used to walk upstream along these paths on their way home. The information boards vividly describe just how hard and dangerous this profession was.
I take a long break on a bench right by the Rhine, with both Laufenburgs (Switzerland and Germany) in view. Once I arrive in the towns, I realize that a big celebration is taking place here. There’s a wonderful atmosphere right on the old bridge as well.
These two cities are over 800 years old. The legendary Fasnacht carnival is documented to be over 600 years old and is organized by a single guild serving both cities.
I also took the opportunity to visit my friends, the Endele family. Their warm welcome and a pleasant chat over coffee and cake made for a wonderful, unplanned experience. Deviating from the official tour, I continue on the German side. Passing through Murg, I arrive in Bad Säckingen as darkness falls. It’s not at all easy to find an affordable room here.
A local with foreign roots spontaneously offers to help me. Even though today was the longest day, I arrived feeling completely relaxed. My stamina has returned to top form.
Bad Säckingen – Rheinfelden
21 km, sunny and warm
It’s not far from the Hotel Fährmann to the Old Town. It’s market day, so the center is bustling with activity. At St. Fridolin’s Cathedral, I set off and look back gratefully on the beautiful days. A couple from Nuremberg, who were also visiting the church, had both been to S.d.C. before and eagerly told me about their experiences. Once again, the shell was at the The Contact Bridge Backpack.
When the Irish itinerant monk Fridolin, coming from St. Gallen, founded several monasteries in Bad Säckingen and along the Upper Rhine nearly 1,500 years ago, the legend of St. James in Spain did not yet exist. In addition to the Trumpeter of Säckingen, there are many other interesting details to share, as this city—and the region as a whole—has much to offer.
People and animals—including pilgrims—have been crossing the old wooden bridge for 750 years.
Back on the left bank of the Rhine, I enjoy a leisurely stroll right along the water. I’m accompanied by some Roman ruins—a watchtower and a fort built around 250 AD—near Rhyburg. More recent structures are also visible. A large number of hydroelectric power plants have been built and supply considerable amounts of energy.
In Switzerland, it’s striking how many barbecue areas the municipalities have set up for residents, and how well they’re maintained. I keep striking up brief conversations with people. By around 3:00 p.m., I’m already in Rheinfelden, Switzerland.
My plan is to walk a bit further after a short break so I can arrive in Basel a little earlier tomorrow. The closer you get to this city at the bend of the Rhine, the harder it becomes to find an affordable room. Private homeowners are renting out their guest rooms for 120–150 Swiss francs without breakfast! In Rheinfelden-Baden, I get lucky at a Greek restaurant. Crossing the old Rhine bridge, which is decorated with the cantonal flags of Switzerland and the flags of the German states, I reach my lodging.
I take a look around both Rheinfelden towns and meet up with a dear travel friend in the evening. Theresia lives nearby and is also happy that we can see each other again and catch up. We last saw each other 11 years ago. It feels like it was just yesterday. Looking forward to tomorrow’s destination, I cross the bridge again and give thanks for the beautiful, fulfilling day. It’s still pleasantly warm.
Rheinfelden – Basel – Markdorf
20 km, sunny and warm
It’s just past 8:00 a.m. and I’m already on my way toward Switzerland across the old bridge. I have a few sightseeing stops planned for today. Once again, I’m wearing a short-sleeved shirt and a hat, with a rain jacket, fleece, headband, gloves, and anorak in my backpack, and I’m enjoying the sunshine.
Rheinfelden served as an important supply center for Augst (Augusta Raurica), which was founded around 44 AD. Fresh water and building materials were brought in from here.
The walk to Augst is enjoyable, and before long I find myself standing in front of the first sign featuring a column symbol, indicating the Roman excavations. The former bathhouse has been reconstructed. You can see the underground heating channels for the underfloor heating. There are several remnants from this era throughout the town. A theater has also been restored so that it can be used for performances. After all, some 20,000 people once lived in this town. A museum displays many treasures from the Roman era. A detailed tour with numerous informative display panels provides an excellent overview of the Roman period. Truly very impressive.
As I continue along the Rhine on romantic paths, the industrial facilities of Schweizerhallen gradually come into view. A bridge over a steel structure then leads into the industrial area, and the romance is over. There are a few bridges over the railroad and the highway to cross, and then I’m in Muttenz. Construction is underway here, and every little patch of land is being used for expansion.
It won't be long now before I arrive in the St. Jakob neighborhood and pilgrimage center in Basel. Everything here bears this name: the FC Basel stadium, the shopping center, and the parking garage. And, of course, the Alte Gaststätte and the church.
I haven't reached today's destination yet, but I'm treating myself to a cold beer here and imagining a crowd of pilgrims.
It is said that a church for pilgrims stood here as early as 900 years ago. Pilgrims spent the night here and later at the infirmary before continuing on toward the Jura, Le Puy, or Vézelay. My destination today is the cathedral in the center of town.
The route there runs along the Alban Canal into the district of the same name. St. Alban’s Monastery used to house a pilgrims’ hostel. Today, it is a very nice youth hostel that also accommodates pilgrims.
Now comes a slight incline and the St. Alban suburb. From here, you can already see the cathedral’s imposing red towers. A great deal of history has unfolded over a very long time on the plateau of this hill. The cathedral alone is said to have been built, altered, and expanded in various phases over the past 1,200 years. Standing in these vast halls, or in the crypt, there are moments that never fail to fill one with awe and wonder. Such buildings certainly helped convince the citizens back then that there was something greater than humanity: the Creator, Creation, or simply God.
After taking some time to reflect, I decided that at some point I would continue on from here toward Burgundy, to Le Puy.
Since I had reached my destination so early in the day, I decided to take the BW Ticket from Basel Baden Station back to Markdorf. I set off just before 6:00 p.m.
Many parts of the route I covered over seven days filled with joy and enthusiasm are now “flying” past me in the evening glow. From Markdorf, I take the time to head home to arrive.
To walk slowly, with confidence, in peace, with ease, yet remaining attentive and mindful—that is what pilgrimage is all about.
Some people even say it’s like praying with your feet. Yes, that’s pure luxury!
Markdorf
When I get home, I realize time and again just how good this pilgrimage is for the body, mind, and soul!
Pilgrims often say, “Those who set out will always return home.”
Pilgrimage: There’s hardly a better way to get to know the country and its people, your homeland, and yourself!
It's just a shame that there were no pilgrim stamps available for the pilgrim's passport on this (old/new) route.
