Mosel-Camino as a Group: From Bernkastel-Kues to Trier

From 26 to 30 May 2014, Norbert walked the Mosel-Camino from Bernkastel-Kues to Trier together with 15 women pilgrims – in four stages via Osann-Monzel, Klüsserath and Schweich, with a thunderstorm, steep vineyards and a finale at the Abbey of St. Matthias.

From 26 to 30 May 2014 I walked the route from Bernkastel to Trier with 15 women pilgrims. Here's a short account of it.

Day 1 – All great, all wet

Today was our first day, from Bernkastel-Kues to Osann-Monzel. The stretch is about 10 km long and it's fun to walk. The first part, as far as Lieser, runs along the Mosel.

After that the path climbs up into the vineyards, and it's actually a great route. The only thing that spoiled today was the torrential rain and the thunderstorm. I decided to keep going, and so within a few minutes I was no longer dry – at least not at the front. After about half an hour the storm was over and it was pleasant pilgrim weather again.

When we got to our very good guesthouse, I opened my daypack and wanted to put on my spare trousers. But that was no solution either, since the storm had got into the daypack too. So all that's left is shorts. No problem, because it's warm again at the moment anyway. The evening was lovely and I went back to my room fairly early, as I'm tired too.

Day 2 – Luckily there was no rain

This morning I switch on my radio, and the first thing I hear is a severe weather warning for the Rhein-Erft district. Well, that's off to a great start. Still, luckily my clothes from yesterday are dry again, so I can set off without any trouble.

After breakfast that's what we do, and to be on the safe side I've put on shorts, since they're supposed to dry quickly. Everything went well until midday and we reached Klausen with dry feet. Before that I pick up my pilgrim stamp at the Klausen village shop. The wind is slowly picking up and I'm curious whether we'll still get wet. No – this time we were really lucky, and so the pilgrimage could carry on. By now we also have our first casualty: a monster blister on both heels. Hopefully it'll all be fine.

Around 4 p.m. we arrived in Klüsserath, and we'd made it through our first full day. I'm really quite proud of myself and ravenous, but even so, the first thing I do in my guesthouse is fall asleep again. It's not as nice as yesterday's this time, since the toilet and shower are down the hall, but all in all it's fine.

Day 3 – Walking and enjoying

Today we walked from Klüsserath to Schweich. The stretch is about 15 km long, and I had the feeling we were doing nothing but climbing steeply. At least that's how it was for almost the first 7 km. At midday we reached the so-called Zitronenkrämerkreuz, where we take our lunch break.

But back to the morning: against all expectations I got out of bed very easily, and when I went down to breakfast they were already waiting for me. Everyone, not just me, had really enjoyed last night. After breakfast we went to the centre of Klüsserath and met up with the others again. Once we'd got our pilgrim stamps at the Klüsserath info centre, we finally set off.

As described above, the route goes uphill. At midday we had a longer break at the Zitronenkrämerkreuz.

The break wasn't over yet, and since the sun was shining, I lay down in a meadow for the rest of it, watched the insects and then drifted off for half an hour – or should I say: I fell asleep. Yes, it was both. I was abruptly pulled out of my thoughts by a loud “Norbert, we're moving on!”, and so I got up and was laughing with the others again.

In the afternoon came the next 8 km. There were no more waymarks. We searched, but there was nothing. We zigzagged past flocks of sheep, and soon enough we did find a shell after all. The path goes on. On the last stretch it was all downhill. We'd done our next stage and all arrived in Schweich.

Our hotel in Schweich is good and I feel very comfortable. After first taking my standard afternoon nap, I had an ice cream as a reward.

In the evening we'd picked a superb restaurant (Wallerath). Everything was delicious.

Day 4 – Uphill, downhill – Trier, here we come

We were meant to set off a bit earlier, and our start was fixed for 7:30. Breakfast was supposed to be from 7:00.

Then we walked from Schweich to Trier. It was the longest stage in terms of distance and also a very demanding one, because it kept going up and down. Then came the moment – the moment when my stamina deserted me. I couldn't get any further up the hill. My steps got smaller and smaller and the hill just wouldn't end. Since I was walking on my own, I could simply keep going at my own pace. One small step after another. At last I'd made it. We were supposed to wait at the highest point, and after a few minutes the others arrived too.

Many of those who came up the hill said they'd had the same problems. Well then, so I wasn't the only one climbing that hill short of stamina after all.

In Trier-Ehrang we celebrated Mass. I'd been looking forward to a Mass like the ones I know from home, but unfortunately they only had the old Gotteslob hymnal and we only sang hymns none of us knew.

After Mass there was the lunch break, and after that it was uphill again. After the climb we went down a flight of steps that really shouldn't be called that anymore. It was completely washed out and very hard to get down.

After the descent we'd earned a coffee first. In a little pub in Trier-Biewer we were told straight away that they only had 10 cups, so not everyone could be served at the same time. But by and large it worked out.

On we go towards Trier. Just “the bridge” left, and we've reached our big goal. I'm proud that I've made it this far.

Tonight we're supposed to stay at the Josefsstift. It's an old convent, surrounded by a big wall that is in turn secured with barbed wire. I get the feeling nobody really likes it. In this part of the building there's just one shower and one toilet down the hall. You can hear what's being said in the neighbouring rooms, the splashing of water from the shower in the corridor, people walking up and down the hall. Then on to supper. It really was just bread, cold cuts and too little salad and dessert. Every youth hostel in Rheinland-Pfalz has more comfort than this place. This is one house you really don't need to visit again.

Day 5 – My last day in Trier

So, that's it.

Today was the city pilgrimage in Trier to St. Matthias Abbey, and then back into the city centre, to the cathedral and all the sights Trier has to offer. And of course lunch couldn't be left out either.

After breakfast at the Josefsstift we also had Mass in the house chapel.

Our walk along the Mosel to St. Matthias Abbey is lovely. In next to no time we reached the abbey and were able to hold a short reflection for the day in the crypt. To finish, we collected our pilgrim stamps and took the obligatory group photo.

Then back into the city centre – lunch and a stroll around the sights of Trier.

The route in Camino Ninja

You'll find the Mosel-Camino with stages, map and accommodation in Camino Ninja: Mosel-Camino.