Voie de Sens

At a Glance

• Start / Finish: Paris (Saint-Jacques Tower) → Vézelay (Basilica of Saint Mary Magdalene)
• Length: approx. 252 km
• Stages: 12 (12–25 km per day)
• Duration: about 12 days — two weeks of vacation
• Regions: Île-de-France and Burgundy (Yonne) — Seine Valley, Fontainebleau, Yonne Valley, Morvan foothills
• Difficulty: Easy to moderate — no mountain passes, but paved roads for the first two days
• Waymarking: Yellow-and-blue St. James's symbol (yellow on top, blue on bottom); in the Yonne section, partly on GR 13 and GR 654
• Organisation: Association Pèlerins de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle Paris–Sens–Vézelay — waymarked since 2013
• Connection: In Vézelay, the Via Lemovicensis (Vézelay Route) takes over toward Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Overview

The Voie de Sens is the French Way of St. James with the easiest access in the world: It begins right in the heart of Paris. In 12 stages and approximately 252 kilometers, it leads through the forests of Sénart and Fontainebleau, past the much-painted Moret-sur-Loing and the St. James village of Ville-Saint-Jacques into the Yonne Valley — to Sens, with one of the earliest Gothic cathedrals in Christendom, through Joigny and the vineyards of the Auxerrois region, until, after twelve days, it ends on the “eternal hill” of Vézelay. And that's where the real adventure begins: Vézelay is the starting point of one of France's four historic Routes of St. James.

Historically speaking, this route is wiser than it seems: until 1622, Paris was a suffragan diocese of Sens — anyone traveling from Paris to Sens was going to see his archbishop. The direction of the route is not a whim of a hiker, but rather a reflection of medieval administrative geography. The route has only been marked and maintained since 2013, by an association in Saint-Fargeau-Ponthierry—which is itself located on Stage 2—and which maintains a pilgrim's guide that is also available in German. But there’s one thing this route isn’t: it doesn’t have a medieval name. Its Latin name, “Via Senonensis,” doesn’t appear in any ancient text—more on that below.

Taken to Sens in 1281, returned to Vézelay in 1876, re-marked in 2013

The beginning and end of this path are officially linked—by a relic. A relic of Mary Magdalene, presented by Pope Martin IV, had been kept since 1281 in the treasury of the cathedral of Sens. On July 23, 1876, Victor-Félix Bernadou, Archbishop of Sens, brought it back to Vézelay—and with this act, he inaugurated the modern Vézelay pilgrimage. By then, Vézelay itself had already gone through quite a dramatic history: in 882, according to tradition, the monk Badilon brought the remains of Mary Magdalene from Provence, in 1146 Bernard of Clairvaux preached the Second Crusade here before a huge crowd, in 1190 Richard the Lionheart and Philip II set out from here on the Third Crusade—and in 1279 the opening of the tomb at Saint-Maximin devalued the relics: the flow of pilgrims dried up, and in 1537 the abbey was secularized. It was not until 1876 that the Archbishop of Sens restored the pilgrimage. So the path you walk does not simply connect two cities—it connects a loan and its return.

Two kilometers below Vézelay lies Asquins, and there, around 1135, lived the man credited with writing Europe's first pilgrim's guide: the chaplain handed down to us as Aimery Picaud — presumed author of the pilgrim's guide in the Codex Calixtinus. To this day, scholars debate whether Hugues le Poitevin, a monk from Vézelay, might have been the author of the book; what is certain is that Asquins was the gathering place for pilgrims from Champagne, the Pays d'Othe, and Île-de-France—exactly the direction from which you are coming. The village’s pilgrim meadow is still called “Pré des Pèlerins” today, and the Church of St. James in Asquins is one of the 78 UNESCO World Heritage components of the French Way of St. James. You’ll walk the last two kilometers of this route past the front door of the man who is still the subject of scholarly debate.

And now for the punchline that this path reveals: Its Latin name is more recent than it sounds. The pilgrim's guide in the Codex Calixtinus mentions four routes — “Il y a quatre routes qui, menant à Saint-Jacques, se réunissent en une seule à Puente la Reina” — via Saint-Gilles, Le Puy, Vézelay, and Tours. A fifth route via Sens is not mentioned, and the Vézelay route begins in Vézelay itself, not in Paris. "Via Senonensis" is a modern coinage modeled after the four ancient names: a Latin name that no Latin scholar has ever written. The path is genuine nonetheless—Paris has always gone to its metropolitan see in Sens, and since 2013 the yellow-and-blue sign has been hanging on the trees again. The path is merely younger than its Latin makes it look. It says so itself.

Other Names

In French, this path is called Voie de Sens or Chemin de Paris–Sens–Vézelay — both names mean the same thing. You'll almost always see the Latin form Via Senonensis next to them, formed from Senonensis, “of Sens,” named after the Gallic tribe of the Senones, which gave the city its name; in German, it is referred to as the Jakobsweg Paris–Vézelay. This point belongs here because it's often presented differently: There is no evidence of the Via Senonensis from the Middle Ages. The pilgrim's guide in the Codex Calixtinus lists four routes—via Saint-Gilles, Le Puy, Vézelay and Tours; a fifth one via Sens does not appear in it, and the Vézelay Route begins there in Vézelay, not in Paris. “Via Senonensis” is a modern construction modeled after the four ancient names. This does not make the route any less authentic—it simply makes it younger than its Latin name suggests.

Who It's Ideal For—and Who It's Not So Ideal For

Ideal if you want to start walking in France without having to travel there first as if on an expedition: You set out from Paris and, after twelve days, arrive in Vézelay at kilometer 0 of one of the four major historic Routes of St. James. Twelve stages ranging from 12 to just over 25 kilometers, no mountain passes, no need to worry about gear—a route perfect for a two-week vacation, for first-timers, and for stage pilgrims who want to explore France in sections. Those who love church history will find plenty to enjoy: one of Europe’s first Gothic cathedrals in Sens, the UNESCO-listed St. James’ Church in Asquins, and, at the end, the basilica on the “eternal hill.”

To be honest, though, it’s not for you if you’re looking for mountain stages and complete solitude: The first two days take you out of the Parisian suburbs, with all the paved roads that entails. The infrastructure is that of a relatively new trail—marked since 2013 and maintained by a nonprofit organization, not a chain of hostels: Beds are available, but not guaranteed, and the long stretches around Charbuy are best planned in advance, not on the fly. And anyone expecting the crowds of the Camino Francés won’t find them here—on this trail, you’re often alone. For most people, that’s exactly why they choose to walk it.

Route & Landscape

The trail begins in the center of Paris and, on the first day, makes steady progress southeast out of the city. Starting at Montgeron it turns green: the Forêt de Sénart, the Seine Valley, then the vast forest landscape of the Forêt de Fontainebleau with Barbizon and the sandstone boulders within reach. In Moret-sur-Loing you walk through the scenery that Sisley painted a hundred times—and shortly afterward, you find yourself standing in Ville-Saint-Jacques in front of a 12th-century St. James Church, which gave the town its name.

After that, the path leaves the Seine and turns into the Yonne Valley — and it stays there almost until the very end: Sens, Villeneuve-sur-Yonne, Joigny, Auxerre — a string of old riverside towns, interspersed with fields, tree-lined avenues, and the vineyards of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux and Escolives-Sainte-Camille, and in some places the Canal du Nivernais. Only after Cravant does the profile change: the foothills of the Morvan rise, the paths become more wooded, and the villages fewer and farther between. The last twelve kilometers are pure Burgundy—forests, wayside crosses, the Church of St. James in Asquins in the valley, then the climb past the hermitage La Cordelle up to the basilica.

Stages, Terrain & Difficulty

The sponsoring association divides the route into 12 stages — an average of 21 kilometers a day, ranging from 12 kilometers on the final stage to a good 25 between Saint-Fargeau-Ponthierry and Avon. Technically, nothing is difficult: country and forest trails, riverside paths, and through-town sections; no mountain passes. The real challenges are the paved roads on the first two days and two long stretches with few supply points around Charbuy and in the Morvan foothills. The trail is marked with the yellow-and-blue St. James's symbol (yellow at the top, blue at the bottom); in the Yonne section, it runs along parts of GR 13 and GR 654 and also features the white-and-red GR marking there. All stage distances are rounded figures provided by the association—only the total length of 252 km is binding.

1. Paris → Montgeron — approx. 23.5 km — Setting out from the heart of the city: heading southeast from the Tour Saint-Jacques out of Paris, first along paved roads through the suburbs, then along the first riverside paths along the Seine.
2. Montgeron → Saint-Fargeau-Ponthierry — approx. 24 km — through the Forêt de Sénart into the expanse of the Seine Valley; the destination is the headquarters of the sponsoring association — nowhere else is there a better chance to chat with the people who mark the trail.
3. Saint-Fargeau-Ponthierry → Avon — approx. 25.4 km — the longest stage, but with the most beautiful scenery of the first week: the forest trails of the Forêt de Fontainebleau, finishing on the outskirts of Fontainebleau.
4. Avon → Ville-Saint-Jacques — approx. 18.5 km — through the picturesque town of Moret-sur-Loing to the trail’s namesake: Ville-Saint-Jacques, with its 12th-century St. James Church. A short stage, but rich in history.
5. Ville-Saint-Jacques → Champigny — approx. 20.2 km — Saying goodbye to the Seine, entering the Yonne Valley, country roads and quiet villages: This is where the rural section begins.
6. Champigny → Sens — approx. 21.4 km — Arrival in the ancient metropolis: Sens, home to Saint-Étienne Cathedral, construction of which began around 1130. Top contender for a rest day.
7. Sens → Villeneuve-sur-Yonne — approx. 18.8 km — through the Yonne Valley to the medieval fortifications of Villeneuve-sur-Yonne.
8. Villeneuve-sur-Yonne → Joigny — approx. 17.6 km — via Saint-Aubin-sur-Yonne to Joigny: half-timbered streets on the hillside, the first vineyards. The shortest stage in the middle section.
9. Joigny → Charbuy — approx. 24.6 km — the longest leg of the second part, away from the river across the plateau near Auxerre. Long stretches without places to stop for a break — be sure to fill up on water beforehand.
10. Charbuy → Vincelles — approx. 23.1 km — past or through Auxerre and on through the vineyards of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux and Escolives-Sainte-Camille to the bend in the Yonne River near Vincelles.
11. Vincelles → Lac Sauvin — approx. 23.1 km — via Cravant and the Canal du Nivernais into the wooded foothills of the Morvan. From here on, the terrain becomes hilly and secluded.
12. Lac Sauvin → Vézelay — approx. 12 km — the bonus stage: through the forest to the Croix Rouge d'Asquins, past the Church of St. James in Asquins, then up past the La Cordelle hermitage to the basilica. Twelve kilometers that you can take your time walking.

Some stage itineraries include a separate stop between Charbuy and Vincelles in Auxerre—the city is worth it. And for those who only walk parts of it: Sens and Joigny are located along the train route to Paris, so the route can be neatly divided into two or three sections.

Highlights Along the Way

• Tour Saint-Jacques, Paris — the 53-meter-high bell tower, built between 1509 and 1523, all that remains of Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie; co-funded by the butchers’ confraternity of 1182, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is where the Parisian pilgrims set out from.
• Forêt de Fontainebleau — Sandstone, tall high-canopy forest, and Barbizon: the landscape that shaped French painting, all in a single day of hiking.
• Moret-sur-Loing — City gates, the Loing Bridge, the Sisley backdrop: the most beautiful stretch through town during the first week.
• Ville-Saint-Jacques — St. James' Church, dating from the 12th century; designated a Monument historique in 1926; in 1284, control passed to the Knights Templar of the Dormelles Commandery.
• Saint-Étienne Cathedral, Sens — Construction began around 1130; the choir was consecrated in 1164: one of the first Gothic cathedrals in Christendom. Thomas Becket lived here in exile from 1166 to 1170.
• Joigny — A half-timbered town on the slopes of the Yonne, home to the first vineyards along the Burgundy route.
• Vineyards of the Auxerrois Region — Saint-Bris-le-Vineux and Escolives-Sainte-Camille, right along the trail, and in some sections along the Canal du Nivernais.
• St. James Church in Asquins — St. James’s Church, dating from the late 11th century, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a historic gathering place for pilgrims from Champagne and Île-de-France; the village is still home to the “Pré des Pèlerins.”
• Basilica of St. Mary Magdalene, Vézelay — A World Heritage Site since 1979: the destination of this route and the starting point of the Voie de Vézelay.

How Pilgrims Find Their Way onto This Path

It doesn't get any easier than this: Paris. Six long-distance train stations, three airports, and every long-distance bus network in Europe terminate in the city where your journey begins. The traditional meeting place for Parisian pilgrims on the Way of St. James is the Tour Saint-Jacques on Rue de Rivoli—and here’s a clarification: The tower also marks the official Kilometer 0 of the Via Turonensis, which runs southwest through Orléans and Tours to Bordeaux. The Voie de Sens leaves Paris in the opposite direction, heading southeast into the Seine and Yonne valleys. Two routes, one starting point—and then a distance of five hundred kilometers.

In practical terms, this means: You travel to Paris by train, bus, or plane and set out the next morning. Pilgrimages in stages are just as popular: Sens and Joigny are located along the TER route from Paris—you can walk the route in two or three sections and hop on and off easily at each stop.

Continue the pilgrimage?

This path does not end in Vézelay; it is passed on—to one of the four great ones: On the hill begins the Via Lemovicensis, the Voie de Vézelay, which was described as early as the 12th century in the pilgrim's guide of the Codex Calixtinus. About 1,100 kilometers and about 54 days until Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port: the northern branch passes through Nevers and La Charité-sur-Loire, while the southern branch passes through Bourges; the two branches rejoin at Gargilesse-Dampierre and continue through Limoges, Périgueux, and Mont-de-Marsan. The official French trail agency lists the Voie de Sens exactly this way: as a “chemin d’approche”—a feeder trail to the Voie de Vézelay.

From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the Camino Francés takes over across the Pyrenees to Santiago. If you add up the entire route, you’ll find that from Vézelay there are still about 2,000 kilometers to go—and that’s exactly why, for most people, Vézelay isn’t the destination, but the starting line.

Preparation & Practical Information

The best time is April through October: In the spring and fall, the forest sections around Fontainebleau and in the Morvan foothills are at their most beautiful; in the height of summer, the open Yonne Valley gets hot and has no shade. Don't plan your first night on a whim—in and around Paris and Fontainebleau, you'll pay metropolitan area prices.

Accommodations include gîtes d'étape, accueils jacquaires run by municipalities and parishes, chambres d'hôtes, and small hotels—not a single, continuous chain of lodging facilities. You order the Pilgrim's Passport (Credencial) online in advance; in the final section, the Burgundian confraternity Yonne Compostelle also issues its créanciales and runs an information service for the Auxerre–Vézelay route. Two stages are long and have few places to get supplies—you plan those in advance, not along the way: With the Camino Ninja App you're on the safe side—it has the entire route on board, and you can put together your own itinerary and plan suitable accommodations right away.

The nonprofit organization based in Saint-Fargeau-Ponthierry has been maintaining the trail markings and providing guides since 2013 — its pilgrim guidebook from 2021 has 242 pages, lists stages and lodging options, and is published in French, English and German: for such a new trail, the service is unusually good. The trail is marked with the yellow-and-blue St. James symbol; where the trail follows GR routes, it is also marked with white-and-red bars.

What the journey will cost you

France is more expensive than Spain—that's the simple truth of the matter. Expect 45 to 70 euros a day, if you stay at gîtes d'étape and accueils jacquaires and shop at the supermarket (as of August 2026). A bed in a gîte usually costs between 20 and 35 euros, a room in a chambre d’hôtes between 50 and 80, and the menu du jour for lunch between 15 and 20. Two cost items are route-specific: the higher prices in the metropolitan areas around Paris and Fontainebleau at the start—and the church- and municipality-run lodgings in the Yonne Valley, which operate on a donation basis: there, making a decent contribution is a matter of honor, not just a gesture of goodwill. If you budget carefully, you can get by on about 40 euros a day. But if you want to drink Burgundy in the evening, you won’t.

Getting Here

It's an unbeatable start: Paris. All long-distance train stations, three airports, and the long-distance bus network terminate in the city where your journey begins—from any station, the Métro takes you to the Tour Saint-Jacques (Châtelet station) in minutes.

The return trip is a bit more rustic, since Vézelay doesn't have a train station: The next stop is Sermizelles-Vézelay, about 8 kilometers away, on the Paris-Bercy–Avallon TER line. From there, you can take a bus or a taxi—or, fittingly for the occasion, on your own two feet. For those doing the pilgrimage in stages, Sens and Joigny are the best places to get on and off.

• Getting to the starting point: TGV/long-distance train, bus, or flight to Paris (CDG, Orly, Beauvais); starting point: Tour Saint-Jacques, Métro Châtelet.
• Joining or leaving along the way: Sens and Joigny via TER from Paris — ideal for partial trips.
• Return trip: Sermizelles-Vézelay Station (approx. 8 km from the destination), TER line Paris-Bercy–Avallon; Timetables are available at [sncf-connect.com](https://www.sncf-connect.com) and [bahn.de](https://www.bahn.de).
• Continue the pilgrimage: From Vézelay, take the Via Lemovicensis directly—no transfer necessary.