Camino Francés – Winterroute via Valcarlos

At a Glance

• Start / Finish: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port → Roncesvalles — the first stage of the Camino Francés along its winter-friendly valley route; not a separate Camino
• Length: 23.4 km
• Ascent/Descent: ↗ 1,001 m / ↘ 248 m — gentle climb to Valcarlos, steep descent from Gañecoleta: Most of the climb occurs in the final kilometers before the Puerto de Ibañeta
• Highest point: Puerto de Ibañeta, 1,052 m — then just 1.4 km downhill to Roncesvalles
• Duration: Stage 1 (about 7 hours) — in winter, it's better to take 2 days with an overnight stay in Valcarlos
• Winter closure: From November 1 through March 31, the Government of Navarre closes the Route Napoléon—during this period, taking this route is mandatory, not merely recommended (since 2015)
• Character: Valley route along the Nive and the N-135 — close to the road, with heavy traffic (log trucks!), but always near villages until just before the pass
• Supplies: Arnéguy (km 8.2) and Valcarlos (km 11.4) — after that, for 12 km, there is only one water fountain in Gañecoleta

Overview

There are two ways from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port according to Roncesvalles, and only one of them is ever open. The famous Route Napoléon climbs over the open ridges to the Collado de Lepoeder at 1,430 meters — and is accessible from the November 1 through March 31 blocked, as ordered by the Government of Navarre, since 2015. Then this one remains: 23.4 Kilometers through the Nive Valley, across the border bridge from Arnéguy according to Luzaide/Valcarlos and from Gañecoleta steeply uphill to the Puerto de Ibañeta at 1,052 meters, from which it’s just 1.4 kilometers downhill to Roncesvalles. This route also involves a good thousand meters of elevation gain—the difference from the high-altitude route isn’t the effort, but the alternative: Here, you’ll still come across a village just before the pass. When the mountain is closed, this isn't the second-best option—it's the only one.

She was never a second choice anyway; she's the one with the story. On the August 15, 778 Charlemagne's rearguard was destroyed in these mountains—by Vascones, the Basques, not the Saracens, as the song later recounts. Einhard, the emperor's biographer, devotes a section to the disaster in the Vita Karoli Magni half a line, naming a fallen soldier: Hruodlandus Brittannici limitis praefectus — Roland, prefect of the Breton March. Nowhere else in history is there any further mention of Roland; from this half-line arose the Chanson de Roland, the greatest heroic epic of the Middle Ages. And Aymeric Picaud, who wrote the pilgrim's guide around 1135 in the Codex Calixtinus wrote, noted that Charlemagne himself had encamped with his armies in this valley—hence the name: Valcarlos, Karl's Number. The name of the town along this route appears in the oldest Christian pilgrimage guide.

Our doors are open to everyone — even in January

First, the rule, clearly explained: The winter closure of the Route Napoléon is a Spanish Decision. The Gobierno de Navarra it has since 2015, it applies to the Spanish side of the high-altitude trail (GR 65/GR 12) starting at the border, and the restricted access point is marked with a sign at the Collado de Bentartea — There’s absolutely nothing coming from France here, even if half the internet claims otherwise. And the point isn’t the elevation: you’ll climb just as many meters on the valley route. The point is that there’s no way out — Starting at 1,288 meters, there is no room to pull over for five kilometers along the Napoleon Route all the way to Collado de Lepoeder. If you run into snow or fog there, you can’t turn back—all you can do is call for help. The curve leading to the roadblock is short and unmistakable: 30 rescue operations in 2013, 42 in 2014, 48 in 2015.

Navarra doesn't threaten fines in such cases—Navarra issues bills. Anyone who negligently enters the closed route must pay for the rescue at the official rate: 35 € per hour per emergency responder, 100 € per hour for an ambulance, 1,400 € per hour for a helicopter. The documented case: On March 15, 2016 Two cycling pilgrims, aged 27 and 23, called emergency services while stranded on the closed route in a snowstorm; they spent the night in a shelter and were rescued by helicopter. The bills: 5.360 € and 450 €. The agency's ruling, verbatim:“claramente imprudente y temeraria” — clearly reckless and foolhardy. There’s no need to make a big deal out of it; you just have to take it seriously: For five months of the year, this valley route isn’t just a recommended option—it’s the only legal route of the Camino Francés across the Pyrenees.

And then there's the other half of the truth: This path was never merely a substitute—it has served as a reception infrastructure for nearly a thousand years. A document from 1071 refers to the one at the top of the pass, the“monasterio noble y leal de Ibañeta”, the noble and faithful monastery of Ibañeta; its hermit had the bell"desde el atardecer hasta la medianoche" ringed—from dusk until midnight—so that pilgrims could find their way across the pass in the fog. Today, this bell no longer hangs up there: it was moved to the Iglesia de Santiago from Roncesvalles, 1.4 kilometers downstream. You walk the distance between the bell tower and the bell. Once you reach the bottom, you'll find yourself in front of the hospice, which is located between 1199 and 1215 had it recorded in verse, whoever it allows: Porta patet omnibus, infirmis et sanis, / Non solum catholicis, verum et paganis… — The door is open to everyone, the sick and the healthy alike, not only to Catholics but also to pagans. A waystation from around 1200 that promised in writing never to turn anyone away — and in January, that remains the case to this day: The mountain closes, but the valley remains open.

Other Names

In Spanish, this variant is called ruta por Valcarlos, often also ruta invernal or ruta baja — Winter route, lower route —, in contrast to the ruta alta, the Ruta de Napoleón. The place that gave the name its name has the most beautiful name of all: Basque Luzaide, probably from luze (long) and bidea (Path) — “long path.” It could hardly be more fitting for a route chosen because it is the longer and gentler one; officially, the place has a double name Luzaide/Valcarlos. The endpoints are also bilingual: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is called Donibane Garazi, Roncesvalles is called Orreaga. The pass in between, the Puerto de Ibañeta, is the same transition that medieval sources refer to as Puerto de Cize know. And the hamlet before the final climb will be Gañecoleta, Gañekoleta or Gainekoleta written — the same village, three different spellings.

Who It's Ideal For—and Who It's Not So Ideal For

This is ideal for you if you set out between November and March—in that case, you won’t have a choice anyway, and that’s a good thing. It’s also ideal if you’re setting out in uncertain weather and don’t want to take a chance that it’ll be better higher up: on this route, you’re never more than half an hour away from shelter until you reach Valcarlos. And it’s ideal if you’re more drawn to history than panoramic views—Karl’s Valley, the Bell of Ibañeta, and Roncesvalles are all along this route, not the famous one. To be honest, though, it’s not for you if you’re coming to the Pyrenees for the views: the big 360-degree moment belongs to the Route Napoléon—no question about it. And it’s not for you if you can’t stand asphalt and traffic—a good part of the trail runs along the N-135, which also features Timber Truck When out and about: wear light-colored clothing, stay on the side of the road, and face oncoming traffic. If you don't want to do that, wait for better weather during the open season—and don't take a detour onto the closed route.

Route & Landscape

You'll start in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port at about 170 meters and leaves the city along the Nive: The first eight kilometers are the most pleasant stretch of the day—gently uphill, partly on side roads, partly along the main road, through green Basque countryside with white houses and red shutters. At Arnéguy (km 8.2) You cross the border: a river, a bridge, two countries, a store. Three kilometers further on is Luzaide/Valcarlos (km 11.4), 309 residents, last place with proper supplies — and the parish church Santiago Apóstol The only site dedicated to St. James on the entire stage: It lies on the Winter Route, not the Napoleon Route. From here on, the day takes on a different character: more wooded, quieter, steeper, and Things get serious starting at Gañecoleta — This last third of the route accounts for most of your 1,001 meters of elevation gain, and for twelve kilometers there’s no store, no café, no place to sleep—just a well. At the top of the Puerto de Ibañeta (km 22.0, 1,052 m) stand the chapel, which was dedicated on St. James’ Day in 1965, a stone monument to Roland, and the pilgrims’ wooden crosses; from there, it’s only 1.4 kilometers downhill to Roncesvalles At 923 meters — monastery walls, a beech forest, a church village that grew out of a hospice.

Stages, Terrain & Difficulty

On paper, that's a stage — about 7 hours. In winter, splitting the hike into two parts is the smarter choice: the days are short, and the toughest climb comes at the very end. Gronze rates the route a 4 out of 5 in terms of difficulty — This isn't a flat stage; it's just one with guaranteed snow. The terrain consists mainly of roads and side paths running alongside them; from Gañecoleta on, the climb gets significantly steeper, and the final descent to Roncesvalles is steep: hiking poles aren’t just for show here. Read the elevation profile carefully—gentle up to Valcarlos, steep afterward—and plan your water intake right away: After Valcarlos, there’s only one water fountain for twelve kilometers.

1. Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port → Roncesvalles (23.4 km) — the entire stage in one day: through the Nive Valley via Arnéguy (km 8.2, border) to Valcarlos/Luzaide (km 11.4), then continue through the forest and from there Gañecoleta steeply uphill toward the Puerto de Ibañeta (km 22.0), then a 1.4-km descent to Roncesvalles. ↗1,001 m ↘248 m, about 7 hours.
2. Winter Split, Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port → Valcarlos/Luzaide (11.4 km) — gently uphill through the valley, across the border at Arnéguy. The destination is the Albergue municipal: 24 beds, heating, open year-round.
3. Winter Split, Day 2: Valcarlos/Luzaide → Roncesvalles (12.0 km) — the serious part: starting at Gañecoleta steeply uphill to the Puerto de Ibañeta, then down to Roncesvalles. Twelve kilometers without any supplies—starting in Valcarlos, you'll need to pack water and provisions in your backpack.

Highlights Along the Way

• Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port — Convergence point of the major French routes of the Way of St. James: the Citadel, Rue de la Citadelle, and the pilgrim office. In Basque: Donibane Garazi.
• Arnéguy — the border town at km 8.2: a river, a bridge, two countries, a store (Venta Peio).
• Luzaide/Valcarlos — Charlemagne's Valley. Aymeric Picaud writes in the Codex Calixtinus that Charlemagne encamped here with his armies. Parish church Santiago Apóstol (rebuilt after the War of the Confederation, 1799–1802); on Easter Sunday, the Bolantes.
• Puerto de Ibañeta, 1,052 m — A document from 1071 refers to the “monasterio noble y leal de Ibañeta” here; the hermit rang the bell from dusk until midnight to guide pilgrims through the fog. Today: San Salvador Chapel (consecrated on St. James’ Day in 1965), the Roland Monument, and pilgrims’ wooden crosses.
• Real Colegiata de Santa María, Roncesvalles — Founded in 1127 by the Bishop of Pamplona as a hospital; became a collegiate chapter in 1135; with the Gothic Virgen de Roncesvalles.
• Chapel of Sancti Spiritus (“Charlemagne’s Granary”) — 12th century, the oldest building in Roncesvalles: a chapel for the dead and an ossuary for deceased pilgrims; legend credits Charlemagne with commissioning its construction for the fallen of 778.
• Iglesia de Santiago — a small 13th-century Gothic pilgrimage church. This is where the bell of Ibañeta hangs today.
• Tomb of Sancho VII “el Fuerte” (d. 1234) — a 2.25-meter-tall funerary statue of a king whose height is estimated by scholars to be between 2.22 and 2.31 meters; rediscovered in 1890 and re-erected in 1912.

How Pilgrims Find Their Way onto This Path

Almost everyone has already arrived on foot in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, because the major French routes of the Way of St. James all converge in this small town: The Via Podiensis The route from Le Puy-en-Velay is the busiest feeder route, and in addition there are the Via Turonensis from Paris and the Via Lemovicensis From Vézelay—anyone who has walked one of these routes faces exactly the decision this page is about. Everyone else travels directly here: by train from Bayonne or by bus from Pamplona (see “Getting Here”). And there’s one thing to keep in mind before taking your first step: Between November and March, this route is not a side route or a last resort, but simply the first stage of the Camino Francés — the main route, but only on its winter-ready section.

Continue the pilgrimage?

In Roncesvalles, the winter route comes to an end, and the Camino Francés follows its usual course: through Burguete and Zubiri to Pamplona, and from there across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela—just under 800 kilometers. Where the Napoleon Route and the Winter Route converge, you won’t even notice the difference: Starting from the cloister of Roncesvalles, they all follow the same yellow arrows. And if you’re traveling in the opposite direction, from Roncesvalles back to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port: Going downhill, this route is significantly easier than the Napoleon Route—though the amount of road walking remains the same.

Preparation & Practical Information

The most important step in preparing is to get information: The Route Napoléon is closed from November 1 through March 31 — You’ll be following this route because it’s required by the government of Navarre, not because it’s recommended. During the transition months (October, April), check with the pilgrim office in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to find out about conditions on the mountain; they’ll assess the situation and make a recommendation. The “winter route” doesn’t mean a winter hike, but you’ll still need: a waterproof jacket, a hat, gloves, trekking poles for the steep final stretch, a headlamp because of the short days—and bright or reflective clothing because of the N-135. Fill up on water and provisions Valcarlos Note: After that, there’s nothing but a single fountain for twelve kilometers. If the day isn’t long enough, split it up—the municipal albergue in Valcarlos is open year-round and heated, which in January is an argument that beats all others. However, be sure to check the most important detail Before the Start: the winter operations of the large pilgrim hostel in Roncesvalles — It’s listed as open year-round, but in winter only part of the building may be open; a quick look at the website or a phone call will save you from a surprise at 900 meters. And as everywhere else, you’ll need the Credencial — It's best to order them online in advance, though you can also get them at the pilgrim office. Especially in winter, when many places are closed, the easiest way to plan your stages and accommodations is directly in the Camino Ninja app.

What the journey will cost you

This leg of the trip is inexpensive—it only gets expensive if you take the closed route (see above). The Municipal Hostel in Valcarlos costs 15 €, bed linens: 3 € extra; the large pilgrim shelter in Roncesvalles included 14–15 € for one of the 183 beds; dinner there costs about 11–14 €, laundry 4 €. In Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, you usually pay for a gîte or hostel 15–25 €. When eating out in Spain, you'll find yourself with a menú del peregrino Around 10–12 €, with breakfast costing 5–7 €. The daily budget for the Camino Francés is: 25 € very economical, 40 € comfortable, 50 €+ with your own room. There's something special about winter: Since there are plenty of houses available, you're more likely to end up in a private room than in a dorm — plan 20–30 € Reserve If so, a closed hostel won't put you in an awkward situation (as of August 2026).

Getting Here

• Getting to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port: The railroad line from Bayonne ends right here—five to six trains a day, about an hour, roughly €12; you can reach Bayonne itself by TGV from Paris or Bordeaux. From Spain, the ALSA bus departs once a day Pamplona (approx. 1:45, about 22 €) — Please note: It does not pick up passengers heading to Roncesvalles, even though it passes through there. Nearest airports: Biarritz, Pamplona, Bilbao (as of August 2026).
• Return trip from Roncesvalles: The Autocares Artieda bus goes to Pamplona — Monday through Saturday, departs at 9:20 a.m., about 1 hour and 10 minutes, €5.65. A shared taxi van will take you back to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port from the bus stop for about €15 per person.
• ⚠️ The Winter Trap: On Sundays and holidays, the bus departs from Roncesvalles no public bus — If you arrive on the wrong day, you're stuck. You need to plan for this in advance, not once you're on the road.