All Caminos

Oberpfälzer Jakobsweg

The Upper Palatinate Way of St. James takes you 183.8 kilometers from the Tillyschanz border crossing through the Upper Palatinate Forest and the Naab, Vils, and Lauter valleys to Nuremberg—as the eastern section of the Franconian Way of St. James, which was inaugurated in 1995, which originates in Prague and which Pastor Paul Geißendörfer traced in 1992 not by consulting historical documents, but by following a line of eight St. James churches dating from the 12th to the 18th century. No mountains, 2,475 meters of elevation gain, not a single hostel—and at the end, you stand before St. Jakob.

August 21, 202623 min read
Contents

At a Glance

  • Start / Finish: Tillyschanz Border Crossing (Eslarn, 520 m) → Nuremberg — the trail ends at St. Jakob's Church
  • Length: 183.8 km — as the crow flies, it would be 109.8 km: the route takes a 67 percent detour, and every kilometer of it is justified
  • Ascent/Descent: ↗ 2,475 m / ↘ 2,683 m — not a single mountain, but hundreds of climbs ranging from 40 to 80 meters; highest point 729 m above the Wildstein castle ruins
  • Duration: 7–9 days (8 stages recommended, averaging 23 km)
  • Marking: A white scallop shell on a light blue background—the route description itself warns of “extensive isolation in the forest”: with the Camino Ninja app, you’ll be safe
  • St James churches: Eight at 183.8 km—one every 23 kilometers on average, from the Romanesque Willhof to St. Jakob in Nuremberg
  • Feeder route: The Železná Way from Prague ends exactly at the starting point—Prague to Nuremberg is 443.0 km in one continuous stretch
  • Onward route: The Nuremberg–Ulm Way of St. James begins exactly where this route ends—with no gap
  • Hostels: None. Our database doesn't list a single place to stay before Nuremberg—you're planning to stay at inns and book in advance
  • Rail: Schwandorf (train station right along the route; stop on the direct Nuremberg–Prague train) and Feucht (train station right along the route) — 80 km in between with no train stations
  • Bike variant: ST. JAMES CYCLING PILGRIMAGE ROUTE (yellow scallop shell, yellow bicycle), 5 stages to Rothenburg, approx. 324 km — the cycling route to Nuremberg is 222 km, while the walking route is 183.8 km

Overview

This trail is the German half of a very long route: The Železná Way from Prague ends right at his first step — not just in the same area, not just in the same town, but in the exact same spot. Prague → Nuremberg, 443.0 kilometers, a single seam. And at the other end, the same thing: In Nuremberg, the Way of St. James begins, leading to Ulm right there, where this path ends. In between lie 183.8 Kilometers Upper Palatinate — Upper Palatinate Forest, Lake District, Naab, Vils, and Lauter River Valleys, Franconian Alb — and Eight St. James Churches, built between the 12th and 18th centuries, with one every 23 kilometers on average. The trail was inaugurated 1995 as the eastern section of the Franconian Way of St. James; a pastor from Heilsbronn had read about it three years earlier—not in historical documents, but in this very chain of churches.

To be honest, this approach is quite a statement: There isn't a single mountain along these 183.8 kilometers. The total elevation gain is 2,475 meters. No single day is a “mountain day”—the trail gains elevation in increments of forty to eighty meters, hundreds of times over, wearing you out without ever really challenging you. It avoids the towns as if it had something against them: it misses Amberg by thirteen kilometers, Nabburg by 7, Neumarkt by 9—the only town along the way is Schwandorf, and that's where he runs for it directly past the train station building. There’s no hostel, no train station for eighty kilometers, and the route description even warns of “großflächiger Waldeinsamkeit” Anyone familiar with the hustle and bustle of the Camino Francés will find the exact opposite here: a week of forests, river valleys, and churches—and for days on end, you have it all to yourself.

Eight churches, no document—the clue a pastor discovered in 1992

This route has no chain of medieval documents. No customs regulations, no pilgrim’s blessing, no pilgrim whose name is recorded—we’d rather tell you that than make something up. What it does have is even more powerful: 1992 described Pfarrer Paul Geißendörfer from Heilsbronn, a “fast vergessenen” medieval pilgrimage route—and his evidence was the map. For between Bohemia and Nuremberg lie Eight St. James Churches in a Row: the Baroque wayside chapel at Fuchsberg, the Romanesque church at Willhof, Schwandorf (15th century), Ensdorf Abbey, Hohenburg, Sindlbach, Feucht (12th century), and St. Jakob in Nuremberg — on average one every 23 kilometers. It is no coincidence that churches dedicated to St. James are found throughout Central Europe; they mark pilgrimage routes. Seven centuries of architectural history in a straight line form a route, even if the historical records are missing. And the final link in the chain even bears a specific date: On 20. Februar 1209 Emperor Otto IV handed over the then-small Romanesque chapel of St. Jakob to the Deutschen Orden; about eighty years later, it was rebuilt on the old choir foundation. This isn't a pilgrim's certificate—but it shows just how old the destination of the trail through the Goat Villages is. 1995 the trail was dedicated, 1997 The guidebook was published—marked by the Franconian Alb Association and the Upper Palatinate Forest Association, with Protestant Franconia and Catholic Upper Palatinate working hand in hand.

And this claim can be verified. Distance as the crow flies from Tillyschanz to Nuremberg: 109.8 kilometers. Total distance: 183.8. Detour factor 1.674 — the highest of the German routes in our network in this size class. To achieve this, the route runs 32 kilometers farther south than its starting point, bypasses Amberg by 13 kilometers, and instead passes through Schwandorf, Ensdorf, and Hohenburg — three of the eight St. James churches, none of which are located in a straight line. The path doesn't take a detour. It gathers patronages. That explains its length, the absence of major cities, and the 2,475 meters of elevation gain—all in a single sentence.

That leaves the beginning, and that’s a story in itself: Your kilometer zero is located in a fortress that was built the wrong way around. 1611 built against Bohemia; the earthworks were 1621 reversed by Johann t'Serclaes von Tilly during the Thirty Years' War —"The jumps were oriented more toward the west", against his own kingdom, because his opponent, Mansfeld, came from there. Then the Iron Curtain came, and the border crossing ceased to exist for 44 years: On 31. Dezember 1990, on the last day of the year when the border reopened, there were people living in Tillyschanz thirteen people. Today, the ramparts stand right next to the starting point, with signs from the Upper Palatinate Forest Association—and the pilgrims, from whose land they were once built, are coming over from Bohemia. The place that was the end of the world for two generations has been a new beginning again since 1995.

Other Names

Strictly speaking, this trail doesn't have a name of its own—and that's the most interesting thing about it. It is the Eastern Section of the Franconian Way of St. James, which was inaugurated in 1995 and was designed by Prag via the Tillyschanz border crossing through the Upper Palatinate and Franconia to Rothenburg ob der Tauber leads to; the 1997 guidebook published by the Franconian Alb Association refers to our section as“On the Way of St. James from Tillyschanz via Schwandorf to Nuremberg”. Oberpfälzer Jakobsweg is the name by which you'll find it here and throughout the region—and for good reason: about 173 of its 183.8 kilometers are located in the Upper Palatinate. On long-distance hiking websites, you'll also come across Jakobsweg Tillyschanz – Bodensee, because the route can continue seamlessly through Nuremberg, Ulm, and Konstanz. Please don't confuse these two: The Goldene Straße — since 1513 as"gulden straß" evidenced by the medieval trade route between Nuremberg and Prague; it runs 13 to 26 kilometers north of you the entire time, and you never see it. And the Fränkisch-Schwäbische Jakobsweg begins in Würzburg, not in Nuremberg.

Who It's Ideal For—and Who It's Not So Ideal For

This trail is for you if you have a week and are looking for a trail that's truly deserted. Spanning 183.8 kilometers, it Eight St. James Churches, three monasteries, four pilgrimage churches, two castles, and two palaces—most of them less than a hundred meters from the route—and not a single major city until you reach your destination. It’s also ideal if you appreciate the big picture: You’ll walk the German half of the pilgrimage route Prag–Nürnberg, with seamless transitions at both ends. And it’s ideal if you like to tackle elevation gain in small increments: no climb is steep enough to warrant a name, but the steepest five-kilometer section gains 168 meters—and you’ll still rack up 2,475 meters in total.

To be honest, though, it's not for you if you're looking for a hotel chain. There aren't any. Our database doesn’t list a single place to stay along the 183.7 kilometers leading up to Nuremberg—you’ll need to plan your stays at inns in the market towns, book in advance, and accommodations may be scarce in Wundsheim and Sindlbach. It’s also not for you if you want to rely blindly on trail markers: According to its own route description, the trail leads „durch großflächige Waldeinsamkeit und sehr kleine Dörfer ohne Einkaufsmöglichkeit“—with the Camino Ninja app, which has the entire route mapped out, you’ll be on the safe side. And if you need train stations as a safety net: Between kilometer 69.5 and kilometer 149.3 lies No train station for eighty kilometers closer than four kilometers to the trail. You plan around such gaps in advance, not while you’re on the trail. There’s one more expectation you should adjust: The major towns of the Upper Palatinate aren’t located along this route—Amberg is 13 km away, Nabburg 7, Neumarkt 9, and Oberviechtach 3.6. The route doesn’t lead to the towns. It leads to the churches.

Route & Landscape

You start at the border, right next to the earthworks of the Tilly-Schanzen, less than a kilometer past the Czech village Iron, at 520 meters in the middle of the Oberpfälzer Wald. The first twenty kilometers are the steepest on the entire route: over Eslarn (km 4.3 — the last reliable store for quite some time) up to the highest point, an unnamed forest ridge on 728.7 meters, and down to the Burgruine Wildstein. Then the landscape opens up: the first St. James Chapel near Fuchsberg (km 25.1), Teunz, the Katzbach Valley with Guteneck Castle, and near Willhof (km 44.5) the Romanesque St. James Church. Crossing the Wundsheim forest plateau, you’ll reach the Oberpfälzer Seenland, crosses at kilometer 69.3 the Naab — and you're standing in Schwandorf, the only town between the border and the destination: the 15th-century St. James Church on the market square, the Kreuzberg Church, and the train station right along the route.

The second half involves work in the river valley: first the Naab, then the Vils until Ensdorf starting with St. James' Church in the monastery, then the quiet Lauterachtal — the quietest thirty kilometers of the route, featuring the Stettkirchen pilgrimage church, St. Jakob dem Älteren in Hohenburg and the former Benedictine monastery Kastl. Behind it, you climb onto the Fränkische Alb: the second-highest point (602.8 m), the pilgrimage church Maria Trautmannshofen Right next to the railway line stands the St. James Church in Sindlbach—and somewhere between Kastl and Sindlbach, near Trautmannshofen, the river changes direction: behind you, it flows into the Danube; ahead of you, into the Rhine. At the Birgittenkloster-Ruine Gnadenberg (km 144.6) you enter Middle Franconia; the last forty kilometers are almost flat: Grünsberg Castle, Rummelsberg, Feucht with its 12th-century St. James Church, the Main-Danube Canal, Wendelstein—and then Nuremberg. At km 182.4 is the main train station, at km 183.2 is St. Lorenz, and at km 183.7 it ends: an St. Jakob. By the way, the trail actually loses 208 meters in elevation—by climbing 2,475 meters.

Stages, Terrain & Difficulty

Stage 8 is the rhythm that unfolds: 183.7 km divided by eight equals 23 kilometers per day. This division is based neither on the landscape nor on the elevation profile—both of which are uniform—but on the only factor that is in short supply on this route: the places where there's even a bed. All distance and elevation figures below are taken from the track data in our route database. There are two things you should know: The toughest leg is the first one (27.2 km, ↗ 462 m—right after the border), and the easiest ones are the last ones. And here’s an interesting fact to put things in perspective: The cycling version of the route is 222 kilometers to Nuremberg, while on foot it’s 183.8 — The walking trail is 38 kilometers shorter than the bike path, because cyclists have to take detours on roads where pilgrims are allowed to cut through the woods.

  1. Tillyschanz → Teunz — 27.2 km (↗ 462 m) — the toughest stage right on the first day: Eslarn (km 4.3, last place to stock up for a long time), highest point 728.7 m, Wildstein Castle Ruins, first St. James Chapel at Fuchsberg (km 25.1). Lodging: Oberviechtach, 3.6 km from Teunz.
  2. Teunz → Wundsheim — 24.8 km (↗ 506 m) — Katzbach Valley, Guteneck Castle, then the romanische Jakobskirche Willhof (km 44.5). Limited lodging options—alternatives: Neunburg vorm Wald or Nabburg (7 km, accessible by train).
  3. Wundsheim → Schwandorf — 17.7 km (↗ 153 m) — Upper Palatinate Lake District, crossing the Naab River, then the only town along the route: the 15th-century St. James Church on the market square, Kreuzberg Church, Train station right along the route. Short day, potential day off.
  4. Schwandorf → Rieden — 25.6 km (↗ 458 m) — Naab and Vilstal valleys, St. James Church at Ensdorf Abbey (km 85.5), Eggenberg Pilgrimage Church. Amberg is just under 13 km to the north—do not turn off.
  5. Rieden → Kastl — 21.3 km (↗ 182 m) — das Lauterachtal, the flattest leg of the route: Stettkirchen Pilgrimage Church, St. Jakob der Ältere in Hohenburg (km 103.4), finish line below the former Benedictine monastery in Kastl.
  6. Kastl → Sindlbach — 22.9 km (↗ 382 m) — up into the Franconian Alb to its second-highest point (602.8 m), the pilgrimage church Maria Trautmannshofen right next to the path, then the Jakobskirche Sindlbach. Neumarkt, 9 km to the south, remains out of sight.
  7. Sindlbach → Feucht — 22.2 km (↗ 226 m) — Klosterruine Gnadenberg, Move to Middle Franconia, Grünsberg Castle, Rummelsberg — and the Jakobskirche Feucht Dating from the 12th century, with the S-Bahn station right next door.
  8. Feucht → Nuremberg — 22.0 km (↗ 107 m) — the flattest stage of all: Main-Danube Canal, Wendelstein, Worzeldorf, then past the main train station (right on the route) through Königstraße to St. Lorenz — End an St. Jakob.

If you prefer a quieter atmosphere, go nine stages: Then the Hohenburg → Kastl leg, at 13.2 kilometers and with only a 49-meter descent, becomes the easiest stage of all the routes—a half-day of rest featuring two pilgrimage churches and a monastery. The 7-Stage Option It’s also an option, but honestly: It ends in small villages on four out of seven days, requires you to hike more than 28 kilometers on three days, and is only feasible with a taxi, luggage transfer, or a tent—check the location of the accommodations before you choose it. In any case, the rule is: Your destination for the day isn’t determined by your fitness level, but by where you can find a bed.

Highlights Along the Way

  • Tilly-Schanzen, Tillyschanz (km 0 — right on the trail): Earthworks from 1611, reoriented westward by Tilly in 1621—“Die Schanzen wurden mehr nach Westen ausgerichtet”—with informational signs provided by the Upper Palatinate Forest Association. Your kilometer zero is literally located inside a fortress.
  • Highest point, 728.7 m (km 18.1): an unnamed forest ridge above the Burgruine Wildstein (just a few minutes away). From here, it's a 165-kilometer net descent.
  • St. James Chapel on Fuchsberg (km 25.1 — right on the trail): An 18th-century Baroque wayside chapel—the first St. James shrine along the route, after 25 kilometers through the forest.
  • Romanesque St. James Church in Willhof (km 44.5 — right on the trail): Along with Feucht, it is the oldest building complex in the entire chain of patronage churches.
  • Schwandorf (km 69.7): The 15th-century St. James Church on the market square (right along the way), Kreuzberg Church (just a few steps away) — and the train station right along the path, a stop on the direct route from Nuremberg to Pilsen to Prague.
  • Ensdorf Monastery (km 85.5 — right on the trail): Benedictine monastery on the Vils River, home to the fourth Church of St. James along the route.
  • Lauterachtal Valley, including Stettkirchen and Hohenburg (km 102–103): the Stettkirchen Pilgrimage Church and the parish church St. James the Greater, both right along the path and 1.2 kilometers apart, plus Hohenburg Castle overlooking the valley.
  • Kastl Monastery (km 116.6 — just a few minutes away): A former Benedictine monastery overlooking the Lauterach Valley, the destination of the flattest stage.
  • Maria Trautmannshofen (km 128.6): A pilgrimage church located right along the route, at an elevation of 587 meters, just past the second-highest point on the trail.
  • Gnadenberg Monastery Ruins (km 144.6 — a few minutes off the route): the ruins of a Birgittine convent—and the point where you cross from the Upper Palatinate into Middle Franconia.
  • Grünsberg and Rummelsberg Castles (km 151.5 / 157.1): a castle just a few minutes away, then the Protestant Diakonie Rummelsberg Right along the way—on a route that passes three Catholic monasteries—you’ll also find yourself changing denominations here.
  • St. James Church in Feucht (km 161.7 — right on the trail): Construction from the 12th century — and right next to it is the S-Bahn station.
  • Nuremberg, St. Jakob (km 183.7): in 20. Februar 1209 by Emperor Otto IV as a small Romanesque chapel on the Deutschen Orden handed over, rebuilt about eighty years later on the old choir foundation, a Protestant city church since the Reformation—and a bell has hung in the belfry since 1960 Jakobusglocke. A medieval gathering place for pilgrims on the Way of St. James in southern Germany; today, it serves as a “Jakobsknoten” in the network of trails. Before that, you’ll pass the main train station (right on the trail) and St. Lorenz (just a few steps off the trail).

How Pilgrims Find Their Way onto This Path

The natural access route is the road from Prague: The Železná Way (259.2 km) end right at the starting point this way—not just in the same city, but in the very same spot. Anyone who takes both has 443.0 kilometers from Prague to St. Jakob in Nuremberg along a single route. And that is exactly what was intended: According to both supporting sources, the Franconian Way of St. James explicitly leads from Prague About Tillyschanz — the Czech and German names are two names for the same path, listed separately only because a border lies between them.

Without a doubt, the journey there is the most difficult part of the entire trip: Eslarn does not have a train station. You take the train to Weiden in the Upper Palatinate and then a regional bus to Eslarn—from there, it’s a good four kilometers to the Tillyschanz border crossing. But there’s an elegant alternative: the direct train Nuremberg–Schwandorf–Pilsen–Prague stops in Schwandorf, right along the trail at kilometer 69.5 — So you can explore this trail in either direction starting from the middle, or skip the first half if the seclusion of the forest in the border region requires too much planning for you. If you're coming from the north, note that the Jakobsweg Oberfranken (Hof → Nuremberg, 180.6 km) is the endpoint of this route and could be considered as a route to travel in the opposite direction.

Continue the pilgrimage?

In Nuremberg, this route ends at the same point where the next one begins: The Jakobsweg Nürnberg–Ulm (219.9 km) started right at this point — without a break. From Ulm, the Oberschwäbische Jakobsweg On to Konstanz. The logic behind this chain of reasoning is the real argument: Prague → Nuremberg 443.0 km, Prague → Ulm 662.9 km, Prague → Konstanz 830.5 km — without a single gap. Long-distance hiking websites therefore simply refer to the route as the “Way of St. James: Tillyschanz–Lake Constance.” From Lake Constance, the trail continues through Switzerland and France until it reaches the end of the Camino Francés will pick you up and take you to Santiago.

Nuremberg is a junction, not a stop: Three routes in our network end or begin here at practically the same point—this one, the route to Ulm, and the Jakobsweg Oberfranken from Hof. To be honest: The marked Franconian Way of St. James actually runs south of Nuremberg’s Old Town and continues through Stein and Heilsbronn to Rothenburg ob der Tauber — We haven’t mapped this western section, and the Franconian-Swabian Way of St. James isn’t a substitute for it, since it begins in Würzburg. Anyone who wants to continue on to Rothenburg will need the 1995 guidebook published by the Franconian Alb Association. Our route takes a slightly different path at the end anyway: it turns north at Pillenreuth and takes you to where pilgrims actually gathered in the Middle Ages—to St. Jakob.

Preparation & Practical Information

Three things really matter along this journey. First, Navigation: The trail marker is a white scallop shell on a light blue background, but the route description itself warns: “Karte, Kompass und Verpflegung sollten mitgenommen werden, da der Weg teilweise durch großflächige Waldeinsamkeit und sehr kleine Dörfer ohne Einkaufsmöglichkeit führt” Be sure to bring the Camino Ninja app—it has the entire route for this trail; this isn’t just a recommendation, it’s essential gear. Second, beds: There is no chain of inns, and our database doesn't list a single place to stay before you reach Nuremberg. The main towns along the route are the market towns—Eslarn, Oberviechtach, Schwandorf, Rieden, Kastl, and Feucht—and that's where you should make your reservations, especially on weekends.

Third, meals: Eslarn (km 4.3) and Schwandorf (km 69.7) are the reliable places to shop during the first half of the route—in between and beyond that point, the rule is: Buy supplies the night before; don’t count on finding them along the way. And a safety tip based on our own measurements: Between Between kilometer 69.5 and kilometer 149.3, there is no train station closer than four kilometers along the route — Eighty kilometers by train with no way to get off early. If you have to cut the trip short, you'll need to take a bus or a taxi; make sure to save the phone numbers for the stops along the way beforehand.

The best time is May through October — The Upper Palatinate Forest remains damp well into spring, and the first stage—at 27.2 kilometers and 462 meters of elevation gain—is not a hike suited for short November days. The 1997 guidebook published by the Franconian Alb Association serves as a reference for the trail (“Auf dem Jakobsweg von Tillyschanz über Schwandorf nach Nürnberg”, Seehars Publishing). Plan your daily stages in advance, because lodging options are few and far between and unevenly distributed—the easiest way to do this is right in the Camino Ninja app, where you can put together your stages and check the location of accommodations at the same time.

What the journey will cost you

There is no pilgrim price list for this route—after all, there are no hostels (as of August 2026). You’ll pay prices comparable to those at German inns and guesthouses: realistically 70 to 110 € per day with a single room, dinner, and groceries for snacks; it’s noticeably cheaper if there are just two of you in a double room or if you’re camping. For eight days, that’ll cost you roughly 560 to 880 € excluding travel to and from the destination. There’s no evidence of a pilgrim discount anywhere—what you get instead is the “country inn” approach: Half-board is standard in the market towns, and dinner at the local tavern replaces the hostel’s communal kitchen. The most expensive item is the lack of planning: Anyone arriving in Wundsheim or Sindlbach without a reservation will end up paying for a taxi to the next town as well. The route becomes more affordable where it’s most beautiful—Schwandorf, Rieden, Kastl, and Feucht are established towns with normal, non-touristy prices.

Getting Here

To be honest, the journey to the starting point is the most difficult part of the trip: Eslarn does not have a train station. You're taking the train to Weiden in der Oberpfalz and then take the regional bus to Eslarn; from there, it’s a good four kilometers to the Tillyschanz border crossing—or you can take a taxi directly to kilometer zero. If you’re coming from the Železná Way If you're coming from Prague, you have it easiest: you're already at the starting point.

But the best part of this trip is the return ticket: The Direct Train: Nuremberg–Schwandorf–Furth im Wald–Pilsen–Prague connects your destination with your country of origin — and it stops in Schwandorf, right along the route, exactly halfway along your journey (km 69.5). So you can ride all the way from the end to the start, do half the route, or join in the middle if you have to cut it short—all on the same train. At the end itself, it’s simple: The route runs at kilometer 182.4 right next to Nuremberg Central Station — ICE hub, plus the Nuremberg Airport with an underground rail connection. No transfer issues on the last day.

  • Getting to the starting point: Train to Weiden i.d.OPf., regional bus to Eslarn, then about 4 km on foot or by taxi to Tillyschanz; alternatively, take the direct Nuremberg–Prague train to Schwandorf and start the hike from there (the train station is right on the trail).
  • Return trip: Nuremberg Central Station, right along the route (km 182.4) — ICE trains in all directions, airport accessible by subway; return to Prague by direct train via Schwandorf.
  • Exits along the way: Schwandorf (km 69.5) and Feucht (km 161.7), both of which have train stations right along the route, are the only locations near rail lines; in addition, Altdorf near Nuremberg is 1.6 km away (km 149.3) and Ochenbruck is just under 1 km away (km 158.0). ⚠️ Between km 69.5 and km 149.3: 80 km without a train station.
Camino Shop

Get your pilgrim credential and shell

Everything you need for the Oberpfälzer Jakobsweg, shipped to your door.

Visit Camino Shop