Pfälzer Südroute

At a Glance

• Start / Finish: Speyer (Imperial Cathedral) / Hornbach (monastery complex with Pirminius’s tomb)
• Length: 146.3 km
• Duration: 5–7 days
• Elevation gain: ↗ 1,569 m / ↘ 1,423 m
• Stages: 6 official stages (Stage 2, which is 35 km, can easily be split into two parts)
• Marking: A yellow scallop shell on a blue background, accompanied by yellow arrows (Pfälzerwald Association)
• Region: Rhineland-Palatinate — Vorderpfalz, Southern Wine Route, Wasgau
• Operator: St. James Society of Rhineland-Palatinate and Saarland, Inc. (founded in 2005)
• Sister route: Pfälzer Nordroute(same start, same finish, 155.9 km)
• Best time: April through October

Overview

Two routes along the Way of St. James connect Speyer with Hornbach, and you can choose between forest and vineyards: The southern route is the wine route—146.3 kilometers from theImperial Cathedral, the largest surviving Romanesque church in the world, through the flat Rhine Valley to Germersheim and Landau, then across theKleine Kalmitto the edge of the Wine Route and into theWasgauwith its red sandstone towers and rock castles. The first half is a fast, open run; the second half takes place in low mountain terrain in the heart of Europe’s first cross-border biosphere reserve.

The goal is a punchline in itself: This Way of St. James does not end at a church dedicated to St. James, but at the tomb of another saint —Pirminius, who founded the Hornbach Monastery around 741 and was buried there in 753. For about 800 years, people made pilgrimages to his grave, then came the Reformation; today, a chapel stands over the grave, which was rediscovered in 1953, and the monastery complex is a hotel that offers a pilgrim stamp at the front desk. Those who wish to continue their journey should follow the Muschelstein route toward Saarbrücken and Metz—the very place from which Hornbach’s founding charter originated.

Other Names

The official name of the trail isThe Palatinate Way of St. James – Southern Route; here it runs briefly asPfälzer Südroute, also known at tourist offices as the “Palatinate St. James Pilgrimage Route: Southern Route.” There is no historical Latin or Spanish name for it—the route is a German regional trail within the European St. James network.

“South” is not a destination here, but rather a distinction: There are two Palatinate Ways of St. James between Speyer and Hornbach, and you choose the southern one. Older descriptions sometimes mention 125 or 112 kilometers—these refer to earlier, more direct routes along the Klingbach. The route marked today passes through Landau and Bad Bergzabern and is the longer one.

Who It's Ideal For—and Who It's Not For

The southern route is ideal if you have a week to spare and want both: cultural history with a historical backdrop and forests with uphill climbs. You’ll start at a UNESCO World Heritage Site, pass a St. James Church housing a relic of St. James on the second day, hike through the Palatinate Forest–Northern Vosges Biosphere Reserve for three days, and end at an 8th-century monastic tomb. For your first longer pilgrimage, this is a great combination: a short trip there, no technically challenging stages, and with thePfälzer NordrouteThe perfect second option for next year is just around the corner.

To be honest, though, it’s not for you if you’re looking for pilgrim hostels and the company of fellow pilgrims: There are inns, bed-and-breakfasts, and hotels instead of albergues—you make reservations instead of just going with the flow, and for days on end you won’t meet anyone else doing the same thing. The balance isn’t right for everyone, either: The first two days are flat, open, and partly along farm roads, while the final stage involves more road than would be good for its destination. Those who just want the scenic kilometers should take stages 3 through 5—those who want the full loop will have to put up with the two tough days.

Route & Landscape

From theSpeyer CathedralThe trail initially heads south, following the Rhine upstream: old Rhine branches, floodplain forest, asparagus fields, and hardly any incline. InGermersheimthe route turns west and crosses the South Palatinate Plain untilLandau— a good 57 kilometers and just under 400 meters of elevation gain; a pilgrimage through flat terrain where the kilometers fly by, with little shade and a constant view of the Haardt, which stays with you without you ever reaching it.

Past Landau, the landscape changes. Across theKleine Kalmit(271 m), the highest point in the Rhine Rift Valley, you’ll climb to the edge of the Wine Route and walk along the edge of the forest through Ilbesheim, Leinsweiler, and Klingenmünster toBad Bergzabern. From there, you're in theWasgau, the southern part of the Palatinate Forest: red sandstone towers, castles perched on rocky outcrops, ponds in narrow valleys—all in theUNESCO Pfälzerwald-Northern Vosges Biosphere Reserve, the first cross-border European route since 1998. The final kilometers follow the Trualbtal, passing old mills on the way toHornbach.

Stages, Terrain & Difficulty

The operator divides the route intosix stages(calibrated here to a route length of 146.3 km). The route is unevenly distributed—35 kilometers on the second day, 18 on the fourth—and follows the overnight accommodations rather than any logical pattern: If you split Stage 2, you can turn six strenuous days into seven pleasant ones. Technically, there are no difficult sections; you only need sure footing on the ascents in the Wasgau. The trail markings are reliable in the forest but sporadic when passing through towns—an offline map is a necessity, not a luxury.

1. Speyer → Germersheim(21.9 km) — From the Imperial Cathedral southward through the Old Rhine floodplains; flat, with little shade, and full of mosquitoes in the summer. At the end of the route, St. Jakobus awaits—the only St. James church located directly on the trail.
2. Germersheim → Landau in the Palatinate(35.5 km) — The longest stage of the route, and also the flattest. If you walk it all in one go, you’ll arrive late; it’s better to break it up in Herxheim or Offenbach.
3. Landau → Bad Bergzabern(22.0 km) — Over the Kleine Kalmit (271 m), the highest point in the Rhine Graben, then along the edge of the forest on the Wine Route through Ilbesheim, Leinsweiler, Eschbach, and Klingenmünster.
4. Bad Bergzabern → Bruchweiler-Bärenbach(18.1 km) — The shortest stage, but it marks the start of the Wasgau: red sandstone, steep climbs, and Berwartstein Castle.
5. Bruchweiler-Bärenbach → Eppenbrunn(25.5 km) — The most challenging stage, with about 630 meters of elevation gain and loss as the route winds through the Dahner Felsenland region via Rumbach, Fischbach, and Ludwigswinkel.
6. Eppenbrunn → Hornbach(23.3 km) — Follow the Trualbtal, passing the Schweixer and Hilstermühle mills, through Kröppen to the Hornbach monastery complex. This is the least scenic leg of the route—but it has the most beautiful destination.

A Way of St. James that ends at the tomb of a stranger

The destination of this pilgrimage is not Santiago de Compostela, butPirminius: The wandering monk founded around741his last monastery in Hornbach—confirmed, of all people, by Bishop Sigibald ofMetz, that is, from the direction in which pilgrims continue their journey today—and was buried there on November 3, 753. For about 800 years, his tomb was a pilgrimage site; beginning in 827, he served as the patron saint of the monastery, which owned a school, a 72-meter basilica, and, at times, even the right to mint coins. Then came the Reformation: In 1548, three monks still lived there; in 1557, the monastery was dissolved—and the remains were moved, first to Speyer in 1558, then to Innsbruck in 1575, where they remain to this day in the Jesuit Church. Only1953The empty tomb in Hornbach was rediscovered, a chapel was built over it in 1957, and some of the relics were returned. People make pilgrimages here to a tomb whose contents have been moved—and yet it still works.

The fact that this route is steeped in the history of the Way of St. James is evident from its starting point: Speyer was already mentioned in the 12th century in the travelogue of the Icelandic abbot Nicholas, and “after 1250” had its own St. James Church, complete with a hospice and a hermitage—and aSt. James Brotherhood, whose seals from 1418 and 1516 are kept in the city archives: St. James wearing a conch shell hat, with crossed pilgrim’s staffs. Such brotherhoods consisted of pilgrims who had returned from Santiago. They left us no names—only their seal. The War of the Palatinate Succession wiped out this infrastructure in 1689; St. James’s Church was never rebuilt. All that remains is an alley, a fragment of a column, and the relic of St. James in Germersheim.

The Revival has a symbolic founding date: OnJuly 25, 2005, on St. James' Day, the St. James Society of Rhineland-Palatinate and Saarland was founded—and its trademark is the best punchline along the way: Since 2006, it has had around300 seashell stoneslaid between Speyer, Saarbrücken, and Metz. The concrete shells weremanufactured in molds from railroad tie production by unemployed youth from Saarbrücken. The signpost for this Way of St. James is shaped like a railroad tie—a European pilgrimage tradition, cast as part of a job-creation project. Rarely has trail-building been more honest.

Highlights Along the Way

• Imperial Cathedral of Speyer— Construction began around 1030 under Conrad II; it was consecrated in 1061; it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981; and, at 134 meters, it is the largest surviving Romanesque church in the world. This is where you’ll get your first stamp.
• Traces of St. James in Speyer— Jakobsgasse commemorates St. James’s Church, built “after 1250,” which included a pilgrims’ hospice; the brotherhood’s seals from 1418 and 1516 are housed in the city archives.
• St. James, Germersheim— First mentioned in 1280; rebuilt after its destruction in 1674 under Louis XIV; houses a relic of St. James.
• Kleine Kalmit near Ilbesheim— At 271 meters, it is the highest peak in the Rhine Rift Valley, a nature reserve home to pasqueflowers and offering the view that everyone describes after following this route.
• Klingenmünster and Landeck Castle— A monastery town on the edge of the forest, with castle ruins overlooking the vineyards.
• Berwartstein Castle— the only inhabited rock fortress in the Wasgau region, with passages carved into the sandstone; located directly on Stage 4.
• Dahner Felsenland— freestanding red sandstone towers, a pond, and a forest on Stage 5, in the heart of the biosphere reserve.
• Trualbtal with the Schweixer and Hilstermühle mills— Old valley mills on the final leg.
• Hornbach Monastery Complex— Founded around 741 by Pirminius; his grave was rediscovered in 1953 and a building was erected over it in 1957; today it is a hotel that includes the Historama Museum, which chronicles the monastery’s history.

How Pilgrims Find Their Way onto This Path

The most natural feeder line comes from the north: TheJakobsweg Mainz–SpeyerIt follows the Rhine through Worms all the way to Speyer Cathedral and continues without interruption—the same yellow shell on a blue background, the same sponsoring association. Anyone who wants to start the journey on foot can simply add this section to the beginning of their route.

The same cathedral square is also where thePfälzer Nordroute, which, at 155.9 kilometers, heads for the same destination but runs north through the Palatinate Forest via Neustadt and Johanniskreuz—more forest, more elevation gain, less wine. And from Rheinhessen comes theKlosterroute Worms, which runs from Worms Cathedral to Landstuhl; there it joins the northern route and does not intersect with the southern route—those who want to see the south should start in Speyer. Everyone else simply takes the train.

Continue the pilgrimage?

The Southern Route ends in Hornbach, but the Muschel trail does not. From the monastery complex, the route continues through the Saarland to Lorraine: about 140 kilometers in six to eight days, via Blieskastel and Saarbrücken or via Gräfinthal and Saargemünd, to the Cathedral of Saint-Étienne inMetz. This route is no coincidence—the approximately 300 scallop shells of the Society of St. James are explicitly located between Speyer, Saarbrücken, and Metz, and Hornbach’s founding was confirmed as early as the 8th century by a bishop from Metz. From Metz onward, the French long-distance routes head south, led by theVia Lemovicensisfrom Vézelay — and eventually theCamino Francés.

There is also a second exit halfway along the route: TheJakobsweg Speyer–Bad BergzabernIt follows this route for the first 70 kilometers or so and then turns south in Bad Bergzabern—passing through the Deutsche Weintor to Wissembourg, where the Alsatian Way of St. James begins. So if you’re staying overnight there, you’ll really have a decision to make in the morning: westward to Pirminius’s grave or southward to France. And if you want to experience both halves of the Palatinate, take the route from HornbachPfälzer Nordroutein the opposite direction, back to Speyer.

Preparation & Practical Information

The season runs fromApril through October, and spring is the strongest selling point: pasqueflowers are blooming on the Kleine Kalmit, and the Rhine Valley hasn’t dried up yet. In the height of summer, the first two stages are unpleasant—there’s hardly any shade, so be sure to pack mosquito repellent for the Old Rhine floodplains. The Wasgau is great any time of year, but it’s most beautiful in the fall.

There is no network of lodging facilities: You’ll stay at inns, guesthouses, and hotels—the operator lists about 22 accommodations along the route, with a good selection in Landau, Bad Bergzabern, and Hornbach, and fewer options in the Wasgau villages, where you should book in advance rather than take your chances. Stock up on food in the morning; there are long stretches between stage destinations with no places to stop for a bite. And don’t rely on cell service—coverage in the Palatinate Forest has gaps, so an offline map is a must-have.

OnePilgrim's Passport (Credencial)It's also worth the trip even on a route that doesn't lead to Santiago: Along the Southern Route lie19 official stamping stations, from Speyer Cathedral to the hotel front desk in Hornbach. Order it online in advance so it arrives in time for your departure—and the easiest way to plan your stages and accommodations is right in the Camino Ninja app; that’s exactly what makes the difference between a relaxing week and a long one.

What the journey will cost you

Expect60 to 95 euros per day— German price levels, not Spanish ones. A double room at a South Palatinate inn usually costs between 75 and 110 euros, a single room between 50 and 80 euros, plus dinner for 15 to 28 euros and meals on the go (as of September 2026). For two people, the per-person room rate drops significantly.

You can save money in two ways: by adjusting your route (the split Stage 2 costs an extra night’s stay but is usually the better choice) and by choosing your location—in Landau and Bad Bergzabern, there’s plenty of choice and thus competitive pricing, whereas in the Wasgau villages, there isn’t. The pilgrim’s passport costs a few euros, and the Historama in Hornbach charges a small admission fee. Wine along the Wine Route is the only item where pilgrims are sure to go over budget here.

Getting Here

To the start:Long-distance trains stop atMannheim, from there, the S-Bahn will take you to Speyer in 20 to 30 minutes; it’s a 15-minute walk from the train station to the cathedral. Nearest airports: Frankfurt (about an hour by train to Mannheim), Stuttgart, Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden.

From the destination:Hornbach doesn't have a train station—the nearest one isZweibrücken, about six kilometers away and accessible by bus; from there, you can take a long-distance bus via Homburg (Saar). Plan your return trip in advance—bus service is limited on weekends.

• Train to the start:Long-distance train to Mannheim Central Station, S-Bahn to Speyer —bahn.de
• Alternative access routes:Ludwigshafen, Schifferstadt, Heidelberg (S-Bahn connection to Speyer)
• Return trip from Hornbach:Bus to Zweibrücken, then by train via Homburg (Saar)
• Car:Speyer, located along the A61/A65; it's better to leave your car at the starting point and return by train or bus