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Camino de las Asturias

The Forgotten Original Way of St. James: approximately 579 kilometers from Pamplona along the southern edge of the Cantabrian Mountains to Oviedo—following in the footsteps of the very first pilgrims of the 9th century.

August 11, 20269 min read
Contents

At a Glance

  • Start / Finish: Pamplona → Oviedo
  • Length: 578.8 km
  • Elevation: ↗ 15,079 m / ↘ 15,277 m
  • Duration: about 21–26 days (officially 22 stages)
  • Marking: Incomplete—follows the white-and-red GR-1 trail for long stretches; GPS tracks recommended
  • Other names: Asturian Way, Route of Asturias (Federation Code ES48a)
  • Character: A secluded, historic mountain Camino on the southern edge of the Cantabrian Mountains

Overview

The Camino de las Asturias is something like the The Original Way of St. James: the route taken by the very first pilgrims as they journeyed westward in the 9th and 10th centuries, when the plains of Castile were still under Moorish control and the coast was threatened by the Normans. From Pamplona It runs through Álava and then continues along the southern foothills of the Cantabrian Mountains—through the northern parts of Burgos, Palencia, and León—over the Puerto de Tarna and down to Oviedo.

At that time, Oviedo was the capital and sacred center of Christian Spain; the destination of the journey was the Shrine of the Savior, and only afterward did the pilgrims continue on to the Apostle’s tomb. Today, the route is a quiet, challenging mountain trail with a good 15,000 meters of elevation gain – Not the best choice for a first pilgrimage, but a dream come true for anyone seeking history and solitude. In Oviedo, the Camino Primitivo continues on to Santiago.

Other Names

  • Spanish: Asturias Trail, Asturias Route
  • English: Asturian Way
  • Official: ES48a in the Spanish Federación's route network

The name comes from the destination: In the early days of the pilgrimage, it was not Santiago but the Kingdom of Asturias—with its capital, Oviedo—that served as the safe haven toward which all paths led.

Who This Route Is Ideal For—and Who It's Not

Ideal if you already have Camino experience and are looking for the opposite of the Francés: weeks of tranquility, mountain villages where pilgrims are still a rarity, and authentic history right beneath your feet. You’ll follow the same route as the pilgrims of the 9th century—and, like them, arrive in Santiago via Oviedo.

Less suitable for a first pilgrimage: The trail markings are sporadic, traditional hostels are rare (mostly guesthouses, casas rurales, and municipal lodging), and with a total elevation gain of over 15,000 meters and daily stages of more than 30 kilometers, the route is physically demanding. Without a GPS track and some knowledge of Spanish, it will be difficult.

Route & Landscape

From Pamplona The trail winds through the Burunda Valley between the Aralar and Urbasa mountain ranges toward Salvatierra-Agurain, where it meets the Camino Vasco del Interior, and continues across the Llanada Alavesa to Vitoria-Gasteiz. Past Armiñón, he leaves the Vasco Route and follows the Sendero Histórico GR-1 westward—through the old monastic lands of Valdegovía, where the Valpuesta cartularies preserve the oldest examples of written Spanish.

Then it gets lonely: the high valleys of the Merindades in northern Burgos, the Ebro Reservoir near Corconte, Queen near the source of the Ebro River, the Montaña Palentina with Brañosera – Spain’s oldest documented community (Fuero of 824) – and the mountain valleys of northern León. Across the Port of Tarna (approx. 1,490 m) the trail descends into the Asturian Nalón Valley, crosses the Redes Nature Park, and finally reaches, via Langreo, Oviedo.

Stages, Terrain & Difficulty

About 579 kilometers, over 15,000 meters of elevation gain, 21–26 days of walking: The Camino de las Asturias is one of the most challenging routes to Santiago in Spain. The Federación divides it into 22 official stages ranging from about 20 to 32 kilometers. A tried-and-true general outline:

  1. Pamplona → Salvatierra-Agurain (3 stages) – Burunda Valley between Aralar and Urbasa
  2. Salvatierra → Vitoria-Gasteiz (Stage 1) – Llanada Alavesa, along the Camino Vasco del Interior
  3. Vitoria → Espejo (3 stages) – La Puebla de Arganzón, Salcedo, on to Valdegovía
  4. Espejo → Torme (3 stages) – Bóveda, Paresotas, the Merindades of Northern Burgos
  5. Torme → Corconte (2 stages) – Pedrosa de Valdeporres, plateaus along the Ebro Reservoir
  6. Corconte → Reinosa (Stage 1) – along the Embalse del Ebro, near the source of the Ebro River
  7. Reinosa → Cervera de Pisuerga (2 stages) – Brañosera and the Montaña Palentina
  8. Cervera → Prior (2 stages) – Camporredondo, the mountainous region of Fuentes Carrionas
  9. Prioro → Tarna Pass (2 stages) – Lois, the quiet high valleys of northern León
  10. Tarna → Oviedo (3 stages) – Nalón Valley, Redes Nature Park, Rioseco, Langreo

Per devia Alavae – the path of the very first pilgrims

Medieval chroniclers have recorded it in black and white: “Per devia Alavae peregrini declinabant”—pilgrims took detours along the side roads of Álava, according to the Crónica Silense, which describes the 9th and 10th centuries, when Norman raids plagued the coast and Moorish campaigns ravaged the Meseta. And King Alfonso X noted that “the French Way” was established before the current route was secured About Álava and Asturias took place. Among the earliest travelers known by name are the Frisian San Everando (around 813) and Bishop Gotescalco of Le Puy, who passed through here in 950 as one of the very first documented pilgrims on the Way of St. James.

Back then, the destination wasn't just Santiago, but first Oviedo: Capital of the Christian kingdom, home to the relics of the Cámara Santa. An old saying sums it up: “Whoever goes to Santiago but not to El Salvador visits the servant and forgets the Lord.” From Oviedo, the pilgrims followed what is now known as the Camino Primitivo—the route that King Alfonso II himself had taken.

The fact that this route exists again today is thanks to volunteers: In 2004, Milán del Bosch and Alejandro Fernández Suárez of the Sociedad Cultural La Pegarata began the reconstruction; in 2012, their book *Las rutas transmontanas del Camino de Santiago* was published, and the Asociación de Amigos del Camino de las Asturias is working on signage and recognition as a cultural heritage site. Along the way, leper hospitals, pilgrim graves, and ancient paved paths bear witness to a thousand years of pilgrimage history.

Highlights Along the Way

  • Pamplona – Starting point at the intersection of the major pilgrimage routes, the cathedral, and the Old Town
  • Vitoria-Gasteiz – the medieval “Almendra,” Santa María Cathedral
  • Valdegovía & Valpuesta – A region of monasteries dating back to the 9th century; Valpuesta is home to the oldest written examples of the Spanish language
  • Las Merindades – secluded high valleys in the north of Burgos
  • Reinosa & Ebro Reservoir – just past the source of the great river
  • Brañosera – Spain's oldest documented community (Fuero of 824)
  • Palentine Mountain – Bear Country between Cervera de Pisuerga and Fuentes Carrionas
  • Port of Tarna – approx. 1,490 m, the major pass into Asturias
  • Redes Natural Park – UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in the Upper Nalón Valley
  • Oviedo – Cathedral with the Cámara Santa, pre-Romanesque churches (UNESCO World Heritage Site)

How Pilgrims Find Their Way onto This Path

Pamplona is one of the major hubs of the pilgrimage network—and as a result, many routes lead to the starting point of the Camino de las Asturias:

  • Camino Francés– Those who start in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or Roncesvalles will reach Pamplona in 2–3 days and can turn onto the original route there
  • Camino de Baztán– the quiet feeder route from Bayonne through the Baztán Valley, ending right in Pamplona
  • Camino Aragonés– Those coming from Somport should cross over at Puente la Reina or Pamplona

Along the way, the trail between Salvatierra-Agurain and Armiñón runs alongside the Camino Vasco del Interior– If you'd like, you can also join that route toward Burgos there.

Continue the pilgrimage?

The Camino de las Asturias ends in Oviedo – right where the Camino Primitivo begins—the oldest of all the Ways of St. James, which leads to Santiago de Compostela in about two weeks. Historically, this is the logical continuation: the Original Way to Oviedo, then the Primitive Way to the Apostle’s tomb. In Oviedo, you’ll also come across the Camino San Salvador from León and the Oviedo loop of the Camino del Norte.

Preparation & Practical Information

The best time is May through October – The Puerto de Tarna and the higher elevations of the Montaña Palentina can remain snow-covered well into spring. In the height of summer, the mountains are pleasant, while the valleys are hot.

Traditional pilgrim hostels are few and far between; you’ll usually stay in guesthouses, casas rurales, and municipal lodging—be sure to call ahead in small towns. As on all Spanish routes, you’ll need a Pilgrim's Pass (Credencial) for stamps and hostels, and finally the Compostela—it’s best to order it online in advance. Be sure to download the GPS track; the trail markings are still incomplete. The easiest way to plan your stages and accommodations is directly in the Camino Ninja app, where you can organize both at the same time.

What the journey will cost you

Rural northern Spain is affordable, but hostel dorms are rare: Expect 45–65 € per day for a guesthouse or rural inn plus meals (as of August 2026). Where there are municipal or pilgrim lodgings, the budget is significantly lower.

Getting There

The starting point is Pamplona – Excellent connections by train (Renfe) and long-distance bus; has its own airport; alternatives include Bilbao and Zaragoza. Those arriving on a pilgrimage can take the Camino de Baztán from Bayonne or the Camino Francés From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Pamplona.

  • Train/Bus to Pamplona: Renfe trains from Madrid and Barcelona (renfe.com), long-distance buses, including ALSA (alsa.es)
  • Return trip from Oviedo: Train station with direct trains to Madrid; Asturias Airport (OVD) with bus service (renfe.com)
  • Stage entry: Vitoria-Gasteiz and Reinosa are the best stopovers with train and bus connections

Path Carrier

The route is operated by the Association of Friends of the Asturias Trail and organized by the Sociedad Cultural La Pegarata, documented by the Asociación de Amigos del Camino de Santiago de Álava; the Spanish Federation It officially designates it as Trail ES48a, with 22 stages, and provides GPS tracks. The associations are working on continuous signage and on having the route recognized as a cultural asset (Bien de Interés Cultural).

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