The winter route of the Camino Francés: about 272 kilometers from Ponferrada through the deep gorges of the Sil and the wine country of the Ribeira Sacra to Santiago – snow-free, quiet and spectacular.
The Camino de Invierno is the historic winter route of the Camino Francés. Rather than climbing from Ponferrada over the high, often snow-covered mountains of O Cebreiro, pilgrims and muleteers chose the lower, milder path along the Sil from the Middle Ages on. It runs through the spectacular wine country of the Ribeira Sacra, past the Roman gold mines of Las Médulas, and rejoins the main Galician routes only shortly before Santiago.
Today the Camino de Invierno is one of the quietest and most beautiful routes in Galicia – a rewarding alternative in summer too, for anyone who wants to escape the bustle of the Camino Francés.
The name comes from the fact that the route stayed clear of snow and passable in winter, while the main path over O Cebreiro was often impassable.
Ideal if you love calm, nature and wine and want an alternative final stretch into Santiago. Even in winter it is usually walkable when the main route is already under snow.
Less suitable if you need plenty of company and dense infrastructure: some stages are long and lonely, and a few climbs out of the Sil valley are demanding.
From Ponferrada the path crosses the Bierzo, passing the rust-red eroded landscape of Las Médulas. It then reaches the Sil and follows its deep gorges – the Ribeira Sacra – with vineyard terraces, monasteries and quiet villages.
Over the hills of Lugo and Ourense the route finally joins the Camino Sanabrés near Lalín and runs on its last stages to Santiago de Compostela.
With over 5,600 meters of ascent, the Camino de Invierno is hilly: the climbs and descents in the Sil gorges demand solid fitness. Technically it stays straightforward, but some stages are long and accommodation is more spread out than on the Camino Francés.
Most pilgrims need about 10 to 12 days. Waymarking is now good, but a little planning for accommodation and water helps.
The scenic climax is the Ribeira Sacra: the deep gorges of the Sil and Miño, whose steep slopes have been terraced with vines since Roman times. "Sacred riverbank" is the region's name, owed to its many Romanesque monasteries.
Right at the start you pass Las Médulas, the largest gold mine of the Roman Empire – today a bizarre red rock landscape and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Despite the name, the route is beautiful year-round; in winter it is more passable than the main path but can be rainy. Accommodation is in public and private albergues and guesthouses; on long stages, check the next bed in advance.
As on all Spanish routes, you'll need a pilgrim's credential (credencial) to stay in the hostels and to receive the Compostela at the end.
Spain is inexpensive: budget roughly €25–40 per day. Public albergues often cost €8–12, private ones €12–18; add food and the occasional pilgrim menu. If you self-cater, you'll get by for less.
The starting point is Ponferrada, well connected by train and bus (and on the Camino Francés itself).
A Taberna de Gundián
Open season unknown
AC Hotel Ponferrada by Marriott
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Alameda Rooms Santiago
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Albergue A Fonte de Compostela
Open season unknownEverything you need for the Camino de Invierno, shipped to your door.
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