The Variante Espiritual is the loveliest detour of the Camino Portugués – around 80 km from Pontevedra, over the Armenteira monastery and a boat trip on the Ría de Arousa, back onto the main route at Padrón.
The Variante Espiritual isn't a Camino of its own but a special variant of the Camino Portugués. At Pontevedra it branches off the main route and runs about 80 kilometers across the O Salnés peninsula before rejoining the Camino Portugués at Padrón.
It owes its name to the blend of nature, monastic calm and the legend of the „Translatio“: on a boat trip across the Ría de Arousa you follow the route along which the remains of the apostle James are said to have once been brought to Galicia.
It suits anyone walking the Camino Portugués who wants a scenically and spiritually intense stretch – a little longer and quieter than the direct way.
The Variante Espiritual is worth it if you're already walking the Camino Portugués and have time for a beautiful detour: monasteries, vineyards, a riverside path and the unique boat stage. If you're in a hurry or prefer the direct way to Santiago, stay on the main route – the variant costs an extra day or two.
From Pontevedra the variant leads over the Armenteira monastery, a spiritual heart of the route. Then comes the „Ruta da Pedra e da Auga“ (Way of Stone and Water), an idyllic path along a stream with old mills.
Through the O Salnés wine region you reach the coast, from where a boat trip across the Ría de Arousa and up the River Ulla – the „Ruta Marítima“ (Translatio) – takes you back onto the Camino Portugués. At Padrón the variant rejoins the main way, which continues to Santiago de Compostela.
Depending on your pace, the variant breaks down into roughly three to four stages. With around 1,365 meters of ascent it's moderate; the climb to the Armenteira monastery is the most demanding stretch.
A special feature is the boat stage: it replaces part of the walk and runs seasonally (mainly spring to autumn). Plan it in advance, as departures are limited.
The heart of the variant is the boat trip across the Ría de Arousa and up the River Ulla – the only stage of the entire Camino traditionally covered on water. It follows the „Ruta Marítima“ and thus the legend of the Translatio: along this very sea route the remains of the apostle James are said to have been brought from Jerusalem to Galicia after his death, and carried up the ría to Padrón (Iria Flavia).
That's exactly why you actually travel part of the way by boat here: the crossing re-enacts the apostle's historic arrival and makes the variant the only „maritime“ route to Santiago. Along the water stand stone crosses (the „Vía Crucis do Mar“), considered the oldest maritime Via Crucis in the world. The boats run seasonally – booking ahead is worth it.
Practical info for the boat trip:
The best time is May to September – also because of the seasonal boat service. Galicia is rainy, so a rain jacket belongs in your pack.
As it's a variant of the Camino Portugués, plan it as part of that route. The easiest way to combine main and variant stages is right in the Camino Ninja app, which lets you put together your stages and line up matching accommodation at the same time.
You'll need the pilgrim credential (Credencial) to stay in the hostels and to receive the Compostela at the end. It's best to order it online in advance so you're sure to have it when you set off.
The variant has hardly any „arrival and departure“ of its own: you reach its start in Pontevedra on foot via the Camino Portugués and walk on from its end in Padrón, again on the Portugués, to Santiago de Compostela – so here the arrival and departure really do happen on foot.
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