Via Lemovicensis Southern Variant

At a Glance

• Start / Finish: Vézelay → Gargilesse-Dampierre
• Length: 281.9 km
• Elevation gain: ↗ 2,211 m / ↘ 2,325 m
• Duration: 10–13 days
• Character: Historical southern route of the Via Lemovicensis — via Nevers
• Marking: GR 654 (white-red) and the seashell symbol
• Difficulty: Easy to moderate — gently rolling hills, no mountain passes
• Connection: Via Lemovicensis (Main Route) in Gargilesse-Dampierre

Overview

Just past Vézelay, the Via Lemovicensis faced with their first decision: north via Bourges—or south via Nevers? The Southern Variant is the southern of the two historic branches: 281.9 km from the Basilica of St. Mary Magdalene in Vézelay across the Loire at Nevers all the way to the artists' village Gargilesse-Dampierre, where the two paths meet again.

Both routes are ancient, and both are well-documented—but the southern route has two advantages that the northeastern route lacks: the sanctuary of the Bernadette of Lourdes in Nevers and the round church of Neuvy-Saint-Sépulchre, a replica of the Jerusalem Way right in the heart of Berry. What's more, it's even quieter than the already quiet main trail.

Other Names

In France, the branch is called Route to Vézelay via Nevers— unlike the northern route by Bourges. On our map, you'll find it listed as the "Via Lemovicensis Southern Variant," while the main route is listed as the "Via Lemovicensis."

Who It's Ideal For—and Who It's Not So Ideal For

The southern route is ideal for you if you want to walk the entire Via Lemovicensis and would rather pass by Bernadette’s shrine and the Rotunda of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher than the Bourges Cathedral — or if you only have 10–13 days and are looking for a well-rounded section of France: Burgundy, the Loire, and Berry, with a true pilgrimage destination at the center.

It’s probably not for you if you’re counting on city life along the way—between Nevers and Gargilesse, it gets very rural and very isolated—or if the Gothic cathedral in Bourges is close to your heart: In that case, take the main route; the two paths meet up again anyway.

Route & Landscape

From Vézelay, the route first takes you through the green foothills of the Brittany: Hamlets, pastures, sunken paths—and, near Bazoches, the castle of the fortress architect Vauban. Passing through Corbigny and the old blacksmith towns of the Nivernais, the trail gradually descends into the Loire Valley, all the way to Nevers The long bridge over the Loire awaits—the highlight of this route.

Beyond the Loire, the landscape changes: the Berry Woodland— Hedgerows, pastures, quiet little roads — lead you through the little wine town Châteaumeillant and the round church in Neuvy-Saint-Sépulchre all the way to the romantic Creuse Valley, where Gargilesse-Dampierre—one of the “most beautiful villages in France”—marks the end of the journey.

Stages, Terrain & Difficulty

The 281.9 km can be comfortably covered in 10 to 13 days; the terrain consists of gentle hills with no long climbs (↗ 2,211 m total). The route is divided into four major sections:

1. Vézelay → Corbigny (about 45 km): The Morvan foothills, Château de Bazoches—Vauban’s residence—and the first quiet villages with inns.
2. Corbigny → Nevers (about 75 km): Through the Nivernais region, with its old blacksmith towns, down into the Loire Valley, arriving at Bernadette's convent.
3. Nevers → Châteaumeillant (about 100 km): across the Loire and through the hedgerow countryside of Berry—the loneliest part of the route.
4. Châteaumeillant → Gargilesse-Dampierre (about 60 km): to the round church in Neuvy-Saint-Sépulchre and the Creuse Valley—this is where you'll join the main route.

Nevers: At Bernadette of Lourdes's

The real reason for taking this route lies halfway along the way. In 1866, he left Bernadette Soubirous— the girl to whom the Virgin Mary had appeared in Lourdes — left her hometown and entered the Saint-Gildard convent in Nevers. She lived there until her death in 1879, at the age of 35.

During the exhumation as part of the beatification process, her body was found to be intact—it has rested in a glass shrine in the monastery chapel since 1925. Today’s Sainte-Bernadette Shrine (Espace Bernadette) is an important pilgrimage site with its own guesthouse—as a pilgrim on the Way of St. James, you’ll stay here, where pilgrims to Lourdes usually stop. It’s a quiet, impressive place that serves as the spiritual center of this route.

Neuvy-Saint-Sépulchre: Jerusalem in Berry

Just before reaching the destination, there is a building of a kind that is rarely seen in France anymore: the Basilica of Neuvy-Saint-Sépulchre is a Romanesque A round church modeled after the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem— Eleven columns support the rotunda, which is modeled after the Holy Sepulcher. It was built in the 11th century, when Jerusalem was out of reach for most people: Those who could not travel to the Holy Land made a pilgrimage here.

On July 15, 1257, the canons of Neuvy also came into possession of a few drops of the “Precious Blood” of Christ and a fragment of the Holy Sepulcher—these relics definitively established the site as a place of pilgrimage. Today, the basilica is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Routes of St. James in France,” and walking around the rotunda is a small Jerusalem ritual for pilgrims on the Way of St. James.

Highlights Along the Way

• Vézelay— Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine, starting point with a pilgrim’s blessing (UNESCO)
• Bazoches Castle— The residence of the military architect Vauban in the Morvan foothills
• Nevers— Shrine of Saint Bernadette, the Ducal Palace, the Fayence tradition, and the Loire Bridge
• Berry Woodland— A landscape of hedgerows and quiet little roads, a France that seems to have been left behind by time
• Châteaumeillant— a small AOC wine-producing town with Gallic roots
• Neuvy-Saint-Sépulchre— A circular church modeled after the one in Jerusalem, housing a relic of the Holy Blood (UNESCO)
• Gargilesse-Dampierre— George Sand’s artists’ village in the Creuse Valley, one of the “most beautiful villages in France”

How Pilgrims Find Their Way onto This Path

The starting point is the same as for the main trail: Vézelay, the eternal hill of Burgundy. Anyone who Via Lemovicensis If you're planning your route, it's best to decide on one of the two branches before you start—the paths split right after you leave the town.

The southern route can also be taken as a standalone pilgrimage lasting 10–13 days: starting in Vézelay, ending in Gargilesse-Dampierre, and returning via Argenton-sur-Creuse. If you’d like, you can simply continue on to the next stage of the main route toward Limoges.

Continue the pilgrimage?

In Gargilesse-Dampierre, you'll find yourself back on the Via Lemovicensis: continuing via Saint-Léonard-de-Noblat, Limoges, and Périgueux to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port — and from there along the The French Way to Santiago de Compostela. From Vézelay via Nevers, that’s about 1,700 km—so the southern route isn’t a detour, but a full-fledged starting point for the great pilgrimage.

Preparation & Practical Information

The same rules apply as on the main route: a sparse but welcoming network of pilgrim shelters, *accueils jacquaires*, and *gîtes d’étape*—it’s customary to call ahead the day before. The route association’s refuges are open from about mid-March to mid-October; the best months are May, June, and September. Don’t forget your pilgrim’s passport—you can get stamps in Vézelay, at Bernadette’s in Nevers, and in Neuvy.

The pilgrimage association “Amis et Pèlerins de Saint-Jacques de la Voie de Vézelay” maintains its own directory of stages and lodging options for the Nevers branch of the route. The accommodations are spaced the farthest apart between Nevers and Châteaumeillant—it’s best to plan this section first.

What the journey will cost you

As with the main route, expect 40–65 € per day: Gîtes d’étape typically cost 15–25 € per night; accueils jacquaires are often donation-based; half-board is frequently 35–45 € (as of August 2026). The guesthouse at the Bernadette Shrine in Nevers is an affordable and unique place to stay.

Getting There

To Vézelay Take the train via Paris and Auxerre to Sermizelles-Vézelay, then take a bus or taxi (10 km). From Gargilesse-Dampierre The bus will take you to nearby Argenton-sur-Creuse, which has a train connection to Paris (via Châteauroux). Along the way, there is Nevers The best way out: Direct trains to Paris in just over two hours.